Street Food 3 - Dumplings
Sadly Teacher Paul's home situation prevented him from continuing with the course, but Manager Simon has kindly stepped in for this last class in the course - Street Dumplings!
My very best wishes for Paul and his family.
My very best wishes for Paul and his family.
We made a couple of different Chinese dumplings - a chicken version of the enormously popular Bao Buns
and a pork version of more traditional Jiaozi dumplings
See what I did there?
Since it takes a couple of hours for the bao dough to rise Manager Simon kindly pre-prepared that for us, so all we had to do was steam it. Which freed up more of our time for making the stuffings and the dumpling wrappers, though we still managed not to finish cooking them, or making any dipping sauce.
I think we're going to need longer classes!
Some SimonSuggestions™:
Since it takes a couple of hours for the bao dough to rise Manager Simon kindly pre-prepared that for us, so all we had to do was steam it. Which freed up more of our time for making the stuffings and the dumpling wrappers, though we still managed not to finish cooking them, or making any dipping sauce.
I think we're going to need longer classes!
Some SimonSuggestions™:
- Add roast garlic for extra yum. Rules to live by y'all!
- The ideal dumpling wrapper ingredient ratio is 2:1 flour to water by weight
- If you are a cheffing wizard you might be able to tell when your pork dumpling is cooked by inserting a skewer then testing its temperature against your upper lip. Otherwise use a temperature probe.
- Chinese dumplings should be steamed for the oddly specific time of 7 minutes.
menu
Dumplings
Bao Buns
Bao Buns
Or, as we call them in English: Bun Buns.
Filled with curried chicken.
ZhengjiaoFilled with curried chicken.
Like wontons. But not.
Packed with pork.
Quick PicklesPacked with pork.
Like regular pickles. But quicker.
Bao Bun Bread
bread veg vegan oriental
This dough recipe can be used to make those filled pleated ball-shaped dim sum dumplings that look a bit like shrunken heads, which are called baozi.
The same dough can alternatively be formed into clamshell shapes for steaming, in which case they are known as Lotus Leaf Breads or Lotus Leaf Buns if filled.
When stuffed with braised pork belly and typically pickled mustard greens and ground peanuts, they are called Gua Bao in China, and Pork Belly Buns or, un-grammatically, Bao Buns in the West. (Since Bao is the Chinese for Bun, we are now literally just calling them Bun Buns 🤣)
These originally come from the cities of Quanzhou or Fuzhou in the coastal Fujian province of China.
In the U.K. they're are also called Hirata buns after Masashi Hirata the head chef of New York's influential ramen restaurant Ippudo which popularised them.
Why the Brits should name them after a somewhat obscure New York restaurant when we have our own ramen shop chains like Wagamama seems something of a mystery.
The story goes that Japanese ramen restaurants which shot up like mushrooms in New York and subsequently across the Western world in the 1980s struggled to find something to do with all the spare braised belly pork they had lying around, so they began selling it stuffed into folded lotus leaf bread - a snack which had already been popularised by the Fuzhounese diaspora community in Japan's Nagasaki Chinatown.
In rival New York ramen restaurant Momofuku's cookbook called, enigmatically, Momofuku, owner David Chang also lays his own claim to popularising pork buns saying:
It seems that some things just inevitably have their time.
The same dough can alternatively be formed into clamshell shapes for steaming, in which case they are known as Lotus Leaf Breads or Lotus Leaf Buns if filled.
When stuffed with braised pork belly and typically pickled mustard greens and ground peanuts, they are called Gua Bao in China, and Pork Belly Buns or, un-grammatically, Bao Buns in the West. (Since Bao is the Chinese for Bun, we are now literally just calling them Bun Buns 🤣)
These originally come from the cities of Quanzhou or Fuzhou in the coastal Fujian province of China.
In the U.K. they're are also called Hirata buns after Masashi Hirata the head chef of New York's influential ramen restaurant Ippudo which popularised them.
Why the Brits should name them after a somewhat obscure New York restaurant when we have our own ramen shop chains like Wagamama seems something of a mystery.
The story goes that Japanese ramen restaurants which shot up like mushrooms in New York and subsequently across the Western world in the 1980s struggled to find something to do with all the spare braised belly pork they had lying around, so they began selling it stuffed into folded lotus leaf bread - a snack which had already been popularised by the Fuzhounese diaspora community in Japan's Nagasaki Chinatown.
In rival New York ramen restaurant Momofuku's cookbook called, enigmatically, Momofuku, owner David Chang also lays his own claim to popularising pork buns saying:
... if Momofuku is famous for something, it's these steamed pork buns. Are they good? They are.
Are they something that sprang from our collective imagination like Athena out of Zeus's forehead? Hell no.
They're just our take on a pretty common Asian food formula: steamed bread + tasty meat = good eating.
It seems that some things just inevitably have their time.
Serves 2-3
Ingredients
- 265g/9½oz plain flour, plus extra for dusting
- ¼ tsp salt
- 1½ tsp fast action dried yeast
- 2 tbsp caster sugar
- 2 tsp baking powder
- 2 tbsp vegetable or sunflower oil, plus extra for brushing
Place the flour, salt, yeast, sugar and baking powder in a large bowl.
Mix 1 tablespoon of the oil and 150ml/5fl oz warm water together in a jug (make sure the water is on the hotter side of warm to the touch). Pour half of the liquid into the bowl of dry ingredients and stir into the flour mixture using a spoon.
Gradually add the rest of the liquid until all the flour has come away from the sides of the bowl. Once combined, remove the dough from the bowl and knead for 5-10 minutes until the dough is smooth and elastic. The dough should be fairly wet, but still manageable. If the dough is too sticky, use a little extra flour to dust the outside of the dough when kneading. If the dough feels a little dry, add a small amount of water to get a tacky feel to the dough.
To make hirata bao, the lip-shaped bao pictured right, roll the proved dough into a thick cylinder, similar to the size of a salami. Divide the cylinder into 7-8 pieces and roll each piece between the palms of your hands to create individual balls of dough.
Roll until each ball is smooth. Press down on each ball of dough with your palm to flatten. Lightly flour a rolling pin and roll each flattened piece out further to make elongated oval shapes.
Lightly brush the top of each oval with a little vegetable oil. Then gently fold one side over the top to form a lip-shaped bun. Cover with a damp cloth and set aside to rest for a further 15-20 minutes. After resting, the buns are ready to steam.
Place 3-4 buns on greaseproof paper or non-stick baking paper in a bamboo steamer basket, leaving plenty of room between the buns. Stack the steamer baskets and cover with the lid. Half-fill a wok with boiling water and place over a high heat. Add the steamer baskets and steam for 8 minutes, without removing the lid. Once steamed, the buns will be cooked through and well risen.
Recipe Tips
If using a metal steamer, take care not to overfill with water and keep your bao away from the sides (as the steam can't escape, the sides of metal steamers can get quite wet which may make your bao soggy). Cover the top steamer basket with a clean tea towel to absorb any condensation and then place the lid on top.
Mix 1 tablespoon of the oil and 150ml/5fl oz warm water together in a jug (make sure the water is on the hotter side of warm to the touch). Pour half of the liquid into the bowl of dry ingredients and stir into the flour mixture using a spoon.
Gradually add the rest of the liquid until all the flour has come away from the sides of the bowl. Once combined, remove the dough from the bowl and knead for 5-10 minutes until the dough is smooth and elastic. The dough should be fairly wet, but still manageable. If the dough is too sticky, use a little extra flour to dust the outside of the dough when kneading. If the dough feels a little dry, add a small amount of water to get a tacky feel to the dough.
You may need slightly more or less water depending on how humid the air feels - if the air feels very dry, add a little more water, but if it is very humid, a little less water is required.
Once the dough is smooth and elastic, dust with 2 tablespoons of flour, scraping off any additional dough from the sides of the bowl. Knead 5-6 more times and then shape the dough into a rough ball.
Coat the dough ball lightly with the remaining oil, cover the bowl with a damp cloth and leave in a warm, draught-free location for 1-1½ hours, or until doubled in size.To make hirata bao, the lip-shaped bao pictured right, roll the proved dough into a thick cylinder, similar to the size of a salami. Divide the cylinder into 7-8 pieces and roll each piece between the palms of your hands to create individual balls of dough.
Roll until each ball is smooth. Press down on each ball of dough with your palm to flatten. Lightly flour a rolling pin and roll each flattened piece out further to make elongated oval shapes.
Lightly brush the top of each oval with a little vegetable oil. Then gently fold one side over the top to form a lip-shaped bun. Cover with a damp cloth and set aside to rest for a further 15-20 minutes. After resting, the buns are ready to steam.
Place 3-4 buns on greaseproof paper or non-stick baking paper in a bamboo steamer basket, leaving plenty of room between the buns. Stack the steamer baskets and cover with the lid. Half-fill a wok with boiling water and place over a high heat. Add the steamer baskets and steam for 8 minutes, without removing the lid. Once steamed, the buns will be cooked through and well risen.
The buns are cooked when they are soft and puffed up, and an inserted skewer comes out clean.
Though you're not supposed to open the lid to check on them 😉
Recipe Tips
If using a metal steamer, take care not to overfill with water and keep your bao away from the sides (as the steam can't escape, the sides of metal steamers can get quite wet which may make your bao soggy). Cover the top steamer basket with a clean tea towel to absorb any condensation and then place the lid on top.
If you use this dough to make filled round bao then you'll need to steam them for longer:
Start them off from cold in the steamer over high heat, turn the heat down once the water boils and steam them for about 15 minutes without peeking. (Slightly over-steaming doesn't seem to do them much harm.)
To keep the buns puffed and fluffy it's recommended not to open the steamer when they're finished, but to let them cool for 10 minutes first.
This will help to prevent them from immediately collapsing in the cold air.
Start them off from cold in the steamer over high heat, turn the heat down once the water boils and steam them for about 15 minutes without peeking. (Slightly over-steaming doesn't seem to do them much harm.)
To keep the buns puffed and fluffy it's recommended not to open the steamer when they're finished, but to let them cool for 10 minutes first.
This will help to prevent them from immediately collapsing in the cold air.
Jiaozi Dumpling Wrappers
bread veg vegan oriental
Jiaozi is the generic Chinese name for dumplings consisting of chopped meat or vegetables wrapped in a thinly rolled dough, sealed up and boiled, steamed, fried or baked.
They differ from wontons really only in the nature of the wrapper, which for wontons is usually square, made with egg, and much thinner and transparent.
Wontons are most commonly boiled and served in a broth or soup.
When jiaozi are steamed as we did, they are called zheng jiao, and are traditionally eaten with a dipping sauce made of black vinegar, soy sauce, and sesame oil.
But we didn't get around to making any of that!
Wei's wrapper recipe here is pretty close to Simon's ideal ratio of 2:1 flour:water by weight.
They differ from wontons really only in the nature of the wrapper, which for wontons is usually square, made with egg, and much thinner and transparent.
Wontons are most commonly boiled and served in a broth or soup.
When jiaozi are steamed as we did, they are called zheng jiao, and are traditionally eaten with a dipping sauce made of black vinegar, soy sauce, and sesame oil.
But we didn't get around to making any of that!
Wei's wrapper recipe here is pretty close to Simon's ideal ratio of 2:1 flour:water by weight.
Makes about 30 Wrappers
Ingredients
- 250 g all-purpose flour - about 2 cups, plus some for dusting
- 130 ml water - ½ cup+2 teaspoon (see note 1)
Add water to the flour gradually. Gently mix with a pair of chopsticks or a spatula until no more loose flour can be seen.
Then combine and knead with your hand. Leave to rest covered for 10-15 minutes then knead it into a smooth dough (see note 2).
Cover and rest the dough again for 30-60 minutes until it becomes soft (Chinese cooks would say “as soft as an earlobe”).
Make a loop with the dough then divide it into four parts. Roll one part (cover the rest to prevent them from drying out) into a rope then cut into 7-8 equal sections.
Press each piece into a small disc with the palm of your hand. Then use a rolling pin to flatten it into a thin disc. Dust with flour if the dough sticks.
Use the fresh wrappers immediately. If you wish to freeze them for later, sprinkle extra flour in between each wrapper. Pile them up then place into an air-tight plastic bag (squeeze out the air as much as possible). Defrost in the fridge then use them straightaway.
Notes:
Cover and rest the dough again for 30-60 minutes until it becomes soft (Chinese cooks would say “as soft as an earlobe”).
Make a loop with the dough then divide it into four parts. Roll one part (cover the rest to prevent them from drying out) into a rope then cut into 7-8 equal sections.
Press each piece into a small disc with the palm of your hand. Then use a rolling pin to flatten it into a thin disc. Dust with flour if the dough sticks.
Use the fresh wrappers immediately. If you wish to freeze them for later, sprinkle extra flour in between each wrapper. Pile them up then place into an air-tight plastic bag (squeeze out the air as much as possible). Defrost in the fridge then use them straightaway.
Notes:
- Please be aware that measuring flour by cups is less accurate and the flour water ratio may vary depending on the brand of your flour.
- You may use a stand mixer with a dough hook to make the dough. Mix flour and water on a low speed until a smooth dough forms.
- Hot-water dough: If you prefer a less resilient texture for pan fried or steamed dumplings, you can make a hot-water dough. Replace ⅔ of the water with boiling water. First mix it with the flour. Then add ⅓ part of room temperature water. Knead as usual.
- Semi-starchy dough: This dough also creates a more tender texture. Replace about ¼ of the flour with corn starch. Don’t forget to sift to ensure an even mix. Make the dough as usual.
We placed a spoonful of filling in the centre of each rolled-out wrapper disk, wetted around the edge, then folded the halves up and crimped them to seal.
There are about a million different styles for doing this, including the same methods you'd use to make ravioli. Just pick the one you like and go with it. I chose Predator's Nutsack.
These should then be placed on greaseproof paper in bamboo baskets and steamed for, according to Manager Simon, the oddly specific time of 7 minutes.
These should then be placed on greaseproof paper in bamboo baskets and steamed for, according to Manager Simon, the oddly specific time of 7 minutes.
Dumpling Fillings
meat ingredient oriental
Pork and cabbage is a classic jiaozi filling, often with sesame oil, shredded ginger, and scallions.
Pork and shrimp is a more typical stuffing for wontons.
Curried chicken is not an unusual baozi filling, but quite often in bao the insides are made more liquid or juicy by adding sauces, oils, stock or liquors.
The pork filling for dumplings needs to be minced, but since the chicken was intended to pack lotus leaf bread we just cut it into katsu slices.
Manager Simon's suggested fillings below are really just store-cupboard versions, made with the ingredients he happened to have to hand.
Indeed he seems to have studied at Teacher Paul's school of cookery and resists giving any quantities for his recipes, so you're on your own.
Pork and shrimp is a more typical stuffing for wontons.
Curried chicken is not an unusual baozi filling, but quite often in bao the insides are made more liquid or juicy by adding sauces, oils, stock or liquors.
The pork filling for dumplings needs to be minced, but since the chicken was intended to pack lotus leaf bread we just cut it into katsu slices.
Manager Simon's suggested fillings below are really just store-cupboard versions, made with the ingredients he happened to have to hand.
Indeed he seems to have studied at Teacher Paul's school of cookery and resists giving any quantities for his recipes, so you're on your own.
Ingredients
Chicken Filling:- chicken breast, sliced
- lemon juice
- cumin powder
- coriander powder
- mild curry powder
- paprika
- roast chilli peppers, sliced optional
- sesame oil to fry
Pork Filling:- pork shoulder, minced
- soy sauce
- plum sauce
- roast garlic cloves, mashed
- ginger powder if that's all you have
- spring onion, chopped optional but good
For the Chicken:
Cut the chicken breast into slices, dress with the spice powders, add some sliced chillies if you like, then mix thoroughly with enough lemon juice to moisten everything.
Leave to marinate for half an hour, then fry quickly over high heat in sesame oil until just cooked through. You can do this while you steam the bao bun bread - it should take about the same amount of time.
Open up your steamed lotus leaves and cram in some quick pickles and the fried curried chicken.
For the Pork:
Cut the pork into slices, then into strips, then into mince.
Squeeze out the roast garlic cloves and smear into a purée across a chopping board with the edge of your chef's knife and add to the pork.
Add in finely shredded ginger or some ginger powder.
Lubricate with fairly generous amounts of soy and plum sauce, mix well and set aside.
Before using to fill your dumplings dress with some finely chopped spring onions or Chinese chives.
Cut the chicken breast into slices, dress with the spice powders, add some sliced chillies if you like, then mix thoroughly with enough lemon juice to moisten everything.
Leave to marinate for half an hour, then fry quickly over high heat in sesame oil until just cooked through. You can do this while you steam the bao bun bread - it should take about the same amount of time.
Open up your steamed lotus leaves and cram in some quick pickles and the fried curried chicken.
Surprisingly good!
You could add some shredded lettuce, a sprinkle of sesame seeds, a squirt of mayonnaise or a drizzle of sesame oil or hoisin sauce if you fancied.
You could add some shredded lettuce, a sprinkle of sesame seeds, a squirt of mayonnaise or a drizzle of sesame oil or hoisin sauce if you fancied.
For the Pork:
Cut the pork into slices, then into strips, then into mince.
Squeeze out the roast garlic cloves and smear into a purée across a chopping board with the edge of your chef's knife and add to the pork.
Add in finely shredded ginger or some ginger powder.
Lubricate with fairly generous amounts of soy and plum sauce, mix well and set aside.
Before using to fill your dumplings dress with some finely chopped spring onions or Chinese chives.
Not too bad - there's a fair amount of tasty juice from the added sauces.
Be sure to heat the minced pork filling up to at least 65°C and perhaps 70°C just to be on the safe side.
Be sure to heat the minced pork filling up to at least 65°C and perhaps 70°C just to be on the safe side.
Quick Pickles
side veg vegan
We pickled shallots and carrots, but this works well with most crunchy vegetables or even fruit, just don't mix too many different characters together!
Try thinly sliced carrots, cucumber, onion, shallots, garlic, broccoli, cauliflower, peppers, fennel, turnip, celeriac, apples, Asian pears, etc.
You can eat them almost immediately, but covered with the pickling liquid these should keep for a couple of weeks in the fridge.
I used 2:1 vinegar to sugar but it's fairly insensitive to the types and relative quantities of vinegar and sugar - adjust or even dilute as you prefer.
For an Asian-style pickle you might want to use rice vinegar, but otherwise white wine or even malt vinegar will work fine. Probably not spirit vinegar though, which is a bit harsh.
Try thinly sliced carrots, cucumber, onion, shallots, garlic, broccoli, cauliflower, peppers, fennel, turnip, celeriac, apples, Asian pears, etc.
You can eat them almost immediately, but covered with the pickling liquid these should keep for a couple of weeks in the fridge.
I used 2:1 vinegar to sugar but it's fairly insensitive to the types and relative quantities of vinegar and sugar - adjust or even dilute as you prefer.
For an Asian-style pickle you might want to use rice vinegar, but otherwise white wine or even malt vinegar will work fine. Probably not spirit vinegar though, which is a bit harsh.
Ingredients
- carrot
- shallots
For the Brine:- 2 tablespoons vinegar
- 1 tablespoon sugar
- pinch of salt
Thinly slice the shallots and cut thin strips of carrot with a peeler.
Bring the sugar and vinegar to a boil in a saucepan, add a pinch of salt and stir to dissolve the sugar. Taste to check the proportions, then pour the brine over your vegetables, or stir the vegetables into the pan.
Let them steep for just a few minutes, then dig in.
Bring the sugar and vinegar to a boil in a saucepan, add a pinch of salt and stir to dissolve the sugar. Taste to check the proportions, then pour the brine over your vegetables, or stir the vegetables into the pan.
Let them steep for just a few minutes, then dig in.