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Bloody BBC!
Today

Bloody BBC - at it again!
Now they're cheerfully engaging in the smear campaign organised by those warmongering loons seeking to foment a confrontation with Russia.
At least this time they had the decency to apologise:


Bug-Eyed Earl Logo
From: Karl <karl@cookingwithkarl.co.uk>
To: Today.Complaints@bbc.co.uk
Date:Fri, Feb 20, 2015 at 10:55 AM
Subject: Propaganda and Dishonesty on the Today Programme

20th February 2015

The House of Lords European Union Committee today published a report titled The EU and Russia: before and beyond the crisis in Ukraine largely critical of British and EU anticipation of Russia's behaviour in its satellite states, stating We also observe that there has been a strong element of sleep-walking into the current crisis, with Member States being taken by surprise by events in Ukraine

Well, here's the BBC at its objective finest for you: I've transcribed part of this morning's Today programme [from 8:34:45] featuring John Humphreys and James Naughtie in the preamble to their interview with former Chief of the Air Staff Sir Michael Graydon and Sir Andrew Wood, former British Ambassador to Moscow:

Europe has been sleep-walking into a crisis with Russia, we've just been hearing, failing to understand President Putin's expansionist strategy and his vision of the European Union as a rival so says the EU committee of the Lords...

This is a lie.
EVERY use of the word expansion in the document in question refers to NATO expansion (10 times!) and the ONLY use of the term expansionist in the document is in this quote:
Ms Sabine Lösing MEP said that we are witnessing an intense power political struggle in which it was the West that initiated the contest with its expansionist policies and where Russia now also increasingly reverts to hard power politics..

In other words the BBC is deliberately and dishonestly mis-representing the report by claiming it talks about Russian expansionism, when in fact it is NATO expansionist policies that the document blames for Russia's subsequent reaction in the Ukraine and beyond.

An utterly disgraceful example of mendacious pro-EU propaganda by the BBC.

Disgusted of Edinburgh


BBC logo
From: Today Complaints <Today.Complaints@bbc.co.uk>
To: Karl <karl@cookingwithkarl.co.uk>
Date: Mon, Mar 9, 2015 at 11:32 AM
Subject: RE: Propaganda and Dishonesty on the Today Programme

Thanks for writing and apologies for taking so long to come back to you. I apologise for the use of the word expansionist in this instance. The House of Lords Committee does not describe Putin's strategy in this way, as you point out. Thank you for the feedback.

Kind regards

Sarah Nelson
Today

Have a herring.
A Supper in Brown
Scabby Golden Haggis

Well, it's Valentine's Day - time for another lonely dinner. They are the best kind.

My workmate Ewan Ratbird brought in a haystack-load of rosemary he'd trimmed off the bush in his garden, so I thought I'd have another go at René Redzepi's Aromatic cauliflower in vinegared whey with warm butter yoghurt and horseradish cream but this time without the cheese. And with the whey.
I served it up to myself with a fried pork chop, pan-roasted mushrooms and, best of all, microwaved, frozen mashed potato. The shame (thanks ex-flatmate Peter).
Yumsk!

Pity, when I planned the meal, I hadn't considered how very brown the thing would be. A sort of Anti-Valentine Day Dinner if you like.

Meanwhile, I've finally used up the last of my (un-frozen) haggis. Plus the last few scraps of my gold leaf to decorate a particularly scabby looking Golden Haggis™ Mark II.
Not my finest hour!


On a slightly more colourful note...
It's been time once again to scrub the 707s ready for their next season of sailing. I decided to make a Thermos of soup to take along, and remembering how Rachel once said she'd like to try some borscht I thought I'd give that a go.
Make the most of it girl - once you get yourself a boyfriend you'll be back to doing all your own cooking!

Borsch, Borshch or Borscht
Beetroot Soup
soup meat
Borscht. So good they named it three times.
If you want to start a fist-fight between a Ukrainian, a Russian and a Pole, just ask them who invented Borscht, how to spell it, or how to make it.

I created this recipe from a combination of ideas by Keith Floyd, John Torode and Felicity Cloake
A borscht purist would probably not include the apple, and replace the butter with salted pork fat. They might make a stock with pork (or beef) bones and the first round of vegetables, strain it, then use this to cook grated (or juiced) beetroot only to make a clearer soup. You could then also add little mushroom dumplings (uszka) too.

Choose a dice (or slice) size for the vegetables that suits you. (Or your Thermos)
Personally I like adding beetroot juice at the end, rather than grated beetroot. It doesn't need cooking so you can just heat and serve - and it retains it's fresh earthiness. And vivid colour.

Serves 6

Ingredients
  • 50g butter
  • 1 onion, chopped
  • 1-2 sticks celery, chopped
  • 250g bacon or pork fat salted will work
  • 1 carrot, diced or sliced
  • 1 parsnip, diced or sliced
  • 300g beetroot, peeled, chopped
  • 1-2 litres beef stock
  • 3-4 allspice berries
  • couple bay leaves
  • 2 floury potatoes, peeled, diced
  • ½ cabbage, sliced
  • a few fresh or dried mushrooms, chopped definitely optional
  • 1 leek, sliced, washed
  • 1 apple, peeled, cored, chopped
  • about 500g beetroot, juiced
  • 4-6 cloves garlic, crushed
  • couple tablespoons cider vinegar
  • sour cream with or without horseradish
  • vodka?
  • a few dill sprigs
Method
Chop the onion, celery and bacon or pork fat.
Dice (or grate, if you prefer) a medium-sized (300g) beetroot. Juice the rest.
Dice, grate or slice the peeled carrot. Dice or slice the peeled parsnip Dice the peeled potato. Slice the leek and wash thoroughly. Thinly slice the cabbage.
Sweat the onions, celery, chopped beetroot and carrots in the butter and/or pork fat until well coated and the onions have turned glassy.
Pour over the stock and add the allspice, bay leaves, parsnip and potatoes. Cook until the vegetables have all softened (10-15 minutes).
Peel and chop the apple into generous chunks, then add them the leek and the sliced cabbage and cook until soft - about 10 minutes.
Add the crushed garlic, vinegar, the beetroot juice and reheat.

Serve with a dollop of sour cream and a few dill fronds.
Excellent soup, quite inappropriate for filling a Thermos flask though - being so chunky and all. Bring along a spoon!

You could enliven it with a dash of vodka if you like, and a bit of horseradish in the sour cream is quite nice too.
The soup tastes better after its been left to mature for a day, but I'd still add the beetroot juice fresh before serving.
Gie her a Golden Haggis
Herd of Haggii

  Gag His Sadder Oats mashed on Burns Night
    
17 letters

Is what I'd put, if I were a crossword-puzzle writer.

It's offal time again - seems to come around earlier every year!
Since the yacht club turned down my home-made haggis for their Burns' supper, I had to entertain myself and a few chosen friends with a supper of our own.
Some friends have sturdier constitutions than others - and better late than never eh Aidan & Jude?

Anyway, this year's piece of resistance was the one, the only, the fabulous Golden Haggis™.
I had the idea last year, but didn't get round to making any haggis then, so this year it is. It takes a bit of time (and money) tracking down decent gold foil and it's damn tricky to work with too. I doubt I'll be getting much practice with it. I imagined it might go on smoother than it did - the Golden Haggis looked a teeny bit scabrous.
Still bloody magnificent though - the yacht club's loss I reckon.

As usual despite my detailed itinerary - I had a bit of a struggle getting everything ready at the same time, what with fiddling decorating the Golden Haggis and all.
Making (and cooking up) the haggis itself only took me an evening after work though. Say 5 hours. So no excuses for the rest of you.
Must investigate ways of keeping mashed potatoes (and neeps) warm without drying them out. It would make life a lot easier
Be sure to keep those potato skins too - you can fill them with haggis, top with potato, cover with cheese and bake them as a little haggis snack.
When later you have enough haggis to feed an army and no army to feed.

That is one of the drawbacks of making haggis. You have to make sooooo much! Thank God it's only once a year.


No More Page 3


Apparently this is a victory for feminism.

Personally I think that any feminist who finds themselves siding with the Taliban in dictating to other women what they can and cannot (mostly cannot) be allowed to do with their bodies needs to seriously re-examine their personal philosophy.
But hey that's just me.
Revisitations
Mont d'Or

Well, it's leftover Christmas week month. As usual.
Not only do I have my own leftover cheese to eat up, but this year I've also got Flora's. And her leftover sprouts.
Yippee!

Flora kindly donated a tub of salmon pâté, an overripe Chaource and one of the rare and relatively short-seasoned wooden tubs of Vacherin Mont d'Or. It was absolutely fabulous scooped straight out of its box with hunks of bread, but unfortunately a little too ripe to bake. Consequently I revisited a couple of my staple cheese-guzzling recipes - tartiflette and cheese risotto.
I made the tartiflette with the Mont d'Or I couldn't manage to guzzle raw, the Chaource sans greying, stinking rind and the salmon pâté and very nice it was too. So you don't need to restrict yourself to Reblochon, whatever those Savoy cheesemakers' aggressive PR agents might want you to believe.

I also revisited another couple of dishes from a previous mustard feast this week for our West Coast Charter Reunion Dinner. After the success of our original charter holiday we thought we'd enter the expedition log into our yacht club's annual competition. Which was all the excuse we needed to get together and eat and drink whilst pretending to write it up.

I had another go at getting a crispy crust on the intriguing oyster-stuffed saddle of lamb (distinctly rubbery the first time around - and I promised myself I'd take another run at it), and getting the timing right for the complementary butternut squash gratin. The secret there being to cook it for an hour longer than you thought it could possibly take. Still a bit too much of an onion-string-vest vibe about it for my taste though. Might be worth a re-re-visit.

O Christmas Tree

Christmas Is Here!
Finally I can stop baking and start roasting.

Evidently sauerkraut and mushroom pierogis are a Polish Christmas Eve staple, so I thought I'd give them a go as this year's starter with a piscine twist.

I decided this year we'd also try a spiced cranberry and apple stuffing as recommended by Mum and Delia Smith. What could go wrong?

Things we (re-)learned this Christmas:
  • Sauerkraut and mushroom stuffed filo pastry parcels are much too fiddly for a Christmas starter.
  • Mum's favoured spiced cranberry and apple stuffing is far too tart and practically inedible in any quantity. Just goes to show you can't trust anyone these days. Maybe next year I'll have a go with a potato-based stuffing for a change?
  • Kurt's new gas oven still cooks a 10lb (pre-stuffing) goose in under 4 hours.
  • Kurt really needs a meat thermometer.
  • You can leave the crusts in your bread sauce, but I still say it's a bit weird.
  • Don't forget to add the leftover goose to the pilaf - it's the whole bloody point!
  • No one eats liver paté at Christmas - no matter how seasonal it is.
  • You can never have too much bacon.
  • You can have too much cheese.

Pre-Christmas Leftovers
Amaretti

Paul and Rosy came by to help me eat up the last of my pre-Christmas leftovers, and to trial potential Christmas starters.

I'd originally planned to test pumpkin and amaretti ravioli as part of my annual pumpkin fiesta (as a possible Christmas starter), but didn't get around to it, so we had them today. Along with a first run at sauerkraut and mushroom file parcels - the eventual winner.

A big pot of tarragon-flavoured mussels handy since I needed some mussel stock for the file parcels! and home-made vanilla ice cream with cocoa-meringue to follow completed the meal plan.
You wouldn't believe the washing up, though my flatmate Peter now does. Must be the difference between a three- and four-course meal.

Things I learned today:
  • Don't feed almond biscuits to someone who's told you they have a nut allergy. Idiot!
  • If you have a lot of leftover mussels and sauerkraut, you can do worse than cook them up with some pasta
Now if you'll excuse me - I have a lot of baking to do before Christmas...

Amaretti Biscuits
sweet veg
The original recipe calls for cooking the cookies at 160°C/325°F/Gas 3 for 15 minutes, but that simply wasn't happening for me, so I turned my oven up to 180°C/350°F/Gas 4 which cooked them in the advertised time. But I'm finding they come out crunchier if left for longer at the lower heat say 25 to 35 minutes as David Lebowitz suggests.

Makes about 20 biscuits

Ingredients
  • 340g/12oz ground almonds
  • 340g/12oz caster sugar
  • 4 eggs, whites only
  • 30ml/1fl oz amaretto liquor
  • butter, for greasing
Method
Preheat the oven to 160°C/325°F/Gas 3.
In a large bowl beat the egg whites until soft-peaking - the consistency of softly whipped cream.
Mix the sugar and the almonds gently into it. Add the amaretto liquor and fold in gently until you have a smooth paste.
Place some baking parchment on a baking sheet lightly brushed with butter. Using two dessert spoons place small heaps or quenelles of the mixture approximately 2cm/¾in apart as they will expand whilst cooking. Bake in the oven for approximately 25-35 minutes until golden brown.
Really tasty, though you need to bake them until they're edging towards caramel brown if you want them at all crispy. They keep very well, and gradually harden if anything so bake them early if you're thinking of incorporating them into pumpkin ravioli.

The Spoils of Autumn
Super Moon

I had a lot of seasonal leftovers to eat up, what with Christmas coming and all. Pumpkin mostly. Lots of pumpkin. Plus some Cavolo Nero.
So today I had a quick dinner of homemade (defrosted) herb sausage with a rich onion gravy, onion and cavolo nero with horseradish and cream, and boiled potatoes dressed with sage butter to keep me going.
Yumsk.

Onion Gravy
sauce veg
Following Fiona Becket's method is great for making a decent gravy when you don't have roast juices to use, but you do have some decent stock.
Thoroughly caramelising the onions, as for French onion soup, gives the soup excellent body, and a smooth gravy results from straining them back out again.

Serves 4

Ingredients
  • 1 tablespoon olive oil
  • 100g butter
  • 1-2 onions, sliced
  • de-glazing liquor of choice I used Grand Marnier and Cognac
  • 3 tablespoons plain flour
  • 1 pint/500ml stock
  • flavourings of choice
Method
Heat the olive oil and the butter then add the onions and cook over high heat, stirring regularly, until they begin to darken. Turn down the heat and cook gently, stirring frequently, until thoroughly caramelised, but not burnt, as if you were making French Onion Soup.
You can add bicarbonate of soda and a little sugar to the onions to speed up this process.
Add the flour, and stir until cooked and separating a little from the fat, then de-glaze the pan with liquor, then add the stock gradually, whisking thoroughly at each step.
Press the gravy through a sieve to remove any lumps and the remains of the onions, add any flavourings you like wine, cider, port, fruit juice, etc, adjust the consistency, season, serve.
Excellent, though I suspect it largely depends on the quality of your stock.
Of course mine was superb!

Pumpkin, Pumpkin, Pumpkin, Dark Side

Samhuinn
    Pumpkins retire
    as Fall fog rolls in from the Forth,
    my desire is always to save some.
    Oh cull of Hallow's Eve.
    
To the tune of Mull of Kintyre

Having secured my annual pumpkin collection before the stroke of midnight on Hallowe'en I was equipped to raise the ghosts of pumpkins past in the shape of yet another Pumpkin in a Chicken in a Pumpkin™.
I repeated the tasty stuffing I used in my Classic Pumpkin except that I processed up hazelnuts instead of the chestnuts. To be honest I thought them too grainy despite being chopped quite small (which seems to be a persistent feature of the nut) and as usual the stuffing ended up unnaturally soggy.

I'm starting to think that next year I might approach the whole thing from a more pot-roast direction - after all it ain't really a roast chicken, so much as a poached one. I should stop fighting this, I suspect it's where the moist succulence of the chicken all comes from anyway, and abandon traditionally stuffing the chicken at all (I could always cook a stuffing separately which is usually better anyway). Perhaps surrounding the chicken with vegetables and stock, or just sticking in a few bits of fruit - apple chunks maybe? It would stop me worrying so much about the build-up of liquid in the pumpkin. Though it's a good idea to keep it to a minimum lest the squash split and spill liquid all over your oven.

Anyway, it all turned out nicely enough - Alex One and Caroline kindly came around to help me eat it. I served it with mashed herbed potatoes, glazed carrots with sage Nice! and creamy mustard Cavolo Nero which I bought to have another stab at kale and pumpkin soup with my anticipated leftovers.
They also tried out my liver dates with a garlicky mushroom salad. They really liked the salad!

Things I re-learned about making Chicken in a Pumpkin:
  • Chicken cooked in a pumpkin is fabulously moist.
  • You can keep the excess liquid to a minimum by leaving off the pumpkin lid for most of the cooking time - perhaps put it on at the beginning and the end.
  • Occasionally suck out surplus fluid from inside the pumpkin with a turkey baster and use it for the gravy.
  • It's not the end of the world if the chicken is too small for the pumpkin. It will poach all the same just don't try to fill the gap with stuffing, it'll just turn soggy.
  • It's just impossible to tell how much space there will be inside a pumpkin until you've opened it up. Buy extra!

Yet Another Pumpkin in a Chicken in a Pumpkin
main fowl
Might be time to retire the pleasantly alliterative, but unpleasantly soggy pumpkin stuffing for a pot-roast poaching approach.
Maybe next year?

Serves Everyone

Ingredients
  • a chicken
  • a pumpkin
  • some stuffing
Method
Cut the top off the pumpkin and scoop out the insides. Discard.
Make the stuffing.
Preheat the oven to gas mark 9.
Give the chicken a blast in the oven to crisp up its skin. I keep doing this - no idea if it helps. It might make more sense to remove the skin altogether? Stuff the stuffing into the chicken and the chicken into the pumpkin. Put the pumpkin in a casserole dish large enough to hold the contents in case the pumpkin explodes, put the lid on the pumpkin and put the whole thing in the oven.
Reduce the oven temperature to Gas Mark 5-6.
Bake for hours until the chicken (and stuffing!) is cooked, removing the lid when it all gets too wet inside, and turning down the oven if the pumpkin starts to char.

Peel open a bib in the side of the pumpkin and serve slices of the chicken and pumpkin flesh.

Make stock for your Christmas gravy with the leftover chicken carcass.
As always, tastier than it looks!

Liverish
Liver Pâté

Well, I've been feeling a bit liverish this past week.
That may have something to do with the 2kg of frozen livers I've had to consume after first deciding, while staring aghast at a ludicrous £2 charge for 100g of Port and Liver pâté in my Local Fucking Supermarket™ on a shopping trip for lunchtime sandwich fillers, that I really needed to try making my own.

So I started trawling for chicken livers amongst the butchers of Musselburgh, where I work. For my sins. On the plus side there are actually three butchers here - a minor miracle considering the rate at which poundshops are breeding but unfortunately only one of them seems to do any actual butchering. As far as I can tell the others simply re-sell prepared cuts of meat which they buy in bulk. Much like my Local Fucking Supermarket™. So really, what's the point? When I once suggested to one of these ersatz meat shop-keepers that I intended to cure my own bacon he responded with disbelief. I think he genuinely didn't know it was possible to obtain bacon by any means other than in industrial quantities from a factory in Denmark.
Anyhow, this actual butcher regularly but infrequently supplies one of his customers with chicken livers, and happened to have frozen some in anticipation. Unfortunately this customer buys them in 2kg batches (for what the butcher didn't say), so that was the only option on offer.

Sensing my reluctance at such an over-purchase (the pâté recipe I had in mind called for 350g) the butcher reduced his already-ridiculously-low price from £5 to £4, and eventually I just didn't have the heart to say no.
Since then I've been cooking and eating quite a lot of liver ;)

I've had liver sandwiches for lunch every day for the past two weeks, and for dinner; liver and baked potatoes, and more varieties of liver and pasta than I care to remember. I even went so far as to drag in my accommodating new flatmate Peter.
Welcome aboard Peter.

It turns out that a good liver pâté is dead easy to make and liver parfait makes quite a good topping for baked potatoes.

Bacon and Chicken Liver Pâté
snack meat fowl
I adapted this from John Torode's recipe in Chicken, mainly by adding port.

Makes about 600g

Ingredients
  • 400g chicken livers
  • 250g softened butter
  • 200g pancetta or streaky bacon
  • 1 largeish onion, chopped perhaps 300g
  • fresh thyme leaves
  • 2 tablespoons brandy
  • 100ml port
  • freshly grated nutmeg
  • clarified butter, to cover optional
  • salt and pepper
Method
Check the chicken livers for any greenish stains and cut them off as even a scrap will make the pâté bitter. At the same time pull each lobe away from its connecting threads.

Heat 80g of the butter in a large non-stick frying pan until just foaming. Add the bacon and the onions, add the thyme, season well and cook for 8 to 10 minutes or until the onions are soft and the bacon is thoroughly cooked.
Remove with a slotted spoon and put into a food processor.
Reheat the pan with more butter if necessary. Add the livers and fry quickly until cooked but still quite soft in the middle, about 2 minutes.

Increase the heat, Add the brandy and carefully ignite it with a match, tilting the pan to spread the flames across the livers. Season with a little salt, pepper and grated nutmeg, remove and add to the food processor.
Deglaze the pan with port, bubbling it away until you have only a couple of tablespoons remaining, then scrape the pan into the food processor.

Blend everything in the food processor, then pass the pâté through a coarse sieve as well.
It's essential for a smooth pâté that you press it through a sieve, but you'll find it damn hard work - there'll be a lot of fibre. Unfortunately there's no easy way around this, unless you've found some kind of mechanical sieve, so you'll just have to persevere. It's easiest doing this with the back of a wooden spoon or ladle and one of those conical sieves. I also found it difficult getting the pâté to purée in the processor (though I did use a blender), so you might have to add more port and a bit of melted butter too.
Return the pâté to the food processor and blend in the remaining 170g melted butter. Check the seasoning then press the pâté into a ceramic crock or individual pots and chill well.

The surface of the pâté will gradually oxidize - that is, it will darken in contact with the air. If you wish to avoid this, cover the pâté with a thin layer of clarified butter once it's in the pot/s.
Quite magnificent.
I reduced the relative quantity of bacon (and onion) from John's original, You might try using smoked bacon too, but probably in even smaller quantities.
Christmas Pâté
I made a Christmassy version using:
  • 400g duck livers well, slightly more, but who's counting?
  • 200g smoked pancetta
  • 300g shallots
  • ¼ cup sultanas covered with cognac to soak
  • ¼ cup dried cranberries covered with strawberry* vodka to soak
Cut the larger half of the fruit into halves and soak overnight, drain them off and add the liquor to the frying bacon and onions to flame off as above.
Cook the fruit briefly in the reduced port (just to heat through), drain, and set aside to stir in whole at the very end.
Very Festive!
* It turn's out that what I found in an old demijohn with the label mostly rubbed off was not, as I thought, Strawberry Vodka. According to Angus they don't do a strawberry version, but only a raspberry one. So that's probably what I used.

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