Death by Mushrooms
My weekly MeatWalk into Brighouse comes in many guises - short/long, flat/hilly, footpaths/road, East/West.
(And even meatless, since recently it's become more of a VegWalk, though one that did produce some very fine
San Marzano tomatoes.)
The longer, hillier, pathier, Western route brings me back into Brighouse along the Calder and Hebble canal, which is an indirect but pleasant hike.
It was along these paths that I came across just
hoards of alluring mushrooms, which I gratefully collected up in my handy
ECS Scotland canvas tote bag.
Who totally don't pay me to say that.
It was only later that I discovered many of them were poisonous.
Or might have been.
On further consideration, the Agarics which yellowed when cut didn't have that
super bright chrome yellow that the poisonous kind are supposed to show, and smelled only of mushroom, and not poison.
Apparently some of the edible Agarics also yellow slightly when bruised.
But who really knows with poisonous mushrooms?
Well, apart from
Erin Patterson 😀
Best not to eat them though, just in case.
The
Friends of Judy Woods near my house hold annual Fungi Walks, where eager patrons are instructed in the art of identifying mushrooms.
Can't say I've ever taken to it, but it's a fine Autumn afternoon out.
Unfortunately they are not particularly exercised about their fungal finds being edible.
And double unfortunately they've never led me to a find of chanterelles. Ah - the mushrooming holy grail!
They do a good line in
Specacular Rustgills though.
Pity, despite what a comedy photo opportunity might lead you to believe, that they are decidedly
not edible.
Did I mention my friend Flora's
ECS Scotland language school? They do a nice line in canvas tote bags.
Well they're desperately trying to instigate a viral phenomenon of people taking round-the-world photos of their bags
rather like that garden gnome from
Amélie
To which I have been pressed to contribute.
Hence the occasional appearance of an ECS bag during my recent tour of Japan - though looking increasingly crumply as the holiday wore on.
More photos TOTALLY not sponsored by ECS:
By Karl
Death By Mushroom Soup
veg soup
I found several patches of lovely mushrooms on my weekly meat-walk, with which I filled a cloth shopping bag.
It was only when I got home that I discovered one of those edible-looking patches was the poisonous Yellow Stainer.
So I picked those out.
The rest I turned into a soup which I've tentatively called
Death by Mushroom.
Check back with me in a week...
The following is
not advice for legal purposes:
For the novice wild mushroom picker there are two pretty safe edible mushrooms to look for with easily identifiable characteristics:
The first are Boletus which are very distinctive in having spongy pores instead of gills under their cap.
Probably the best known (and most delicious) of these is the
Penny Bun also known as
King Bolete,
Cep, or
Porcini.
There is only one poisonous variety called the
Devil's Bolete which has a notably red stem,
and a few bitter varieties, which you can determine from their, er, bitter taste.
So as long as you avoid Boletes with any red colouration, any which turn blue when cut in half, and any which taste bitter, you should be good to go.
The second are Agarics with white caps and black or pinkish-brown gills.
This includes plenty of edible varieties like
Field Mushrooms,
Horse Mushrooms,
Wood Mushrooms,
or, I kid you not,
Pavement Mushrooms.
The
Yellow Stainer is the only visually similar poisonous variety which you could easily confuse,
and is fairly detectable from the bright (chrome) yellow staining when the base of the stem is cut, and sometimes visible when the cap is bruised.
They can also smell distinctly of ink, carbolic, phenol or iodine.
Although they aren't
deadly poisonous and some people seem unaffected, others experience severe stomach distress.
Bottom line - if the mushrooms you've picked following those guidelines smell funny or unpleasant, or stain yellow or blue, or taste horrible, don't eat them!
The more you know!
Serves 8
- butter
- olive oil
- 1 large onion, chopped
- 2 tblsps miso paste
- 2kg wild mushrooms, chopped
- a few sprigs of thyme, leaves only
- fresh black pepper
- couple tablespoons marsala wine
- 1-2 tblsp soy sauce
- 1 tblsp fish sauce
- 2 heads garlic, roast
- 30g dried mushrooms
- 1-2l water
- 125g mascarpone
- 300-400ml double cream
- 100ml crème fraîche
- chopped parsley
- pan-fried mushroom slices
- lime juice or sherry vinegar
- olive oil
Soak about 30g of shitake mushrooms in a litre of water overnight.
Put the heads of garlic in a 180-200°C/Gas Mark 4-6 oven for half an hour to an hour until they are soft and begin oozing.
Squeeze out the mushrooms and strain the stock through fine muslim or kitchen roll.
Roughly chop the onion .
Clean and chop the mushrooms.
Heat a mixture of butter and olive oil and sweat the onions until they're transparent.
Add a couple of tablespoons of miso paste and fry until it begins to caramelise a little, then add the mushrooms, thyme leaves and a good grind of black pepper.
Fry gently until they collapse and their excess water has cooked off.
De-glaze the pan with a generous glug of marsala wine .
Add a couple of tablespoons of soy sauce, a tablespoon or two of fish sauce and 1 litre of the mushroom stock.
Allow the baked garlic heads to cool slightly, then squeeze the now soft and oozing garlic out of the cloves into the mushrooms.
Stir the mascarpone through the mushrooms then blend everything in batches to a smooth soup, lubricating with extra water if needed.
Now enrich the soup with double cream, and crème fraîche and season with soy sauce.
To serve, spoon the soup into bowls. Dress with a swirl of cream or crème fraîche, a squeeze of lemon or lime juice, or a splash of sherry vinegar, if you like.
Brown some mushroom slices in olive oil over high heat and scatter them over the soup.
Add some chopped parsley , and a drizzle more of olive oil.
Roast Tomato Soup
soup veg, vegan
My local vegetable shop had some lovely, if expensive, San Marzano tomatoes so I grabbed a bag.
A kilogram of tomatoes doesn't go far when roasted into soup though!
Perhaps it wasn't the best use of them?
There's plenty of roast tomato soup inspiration for you out there -
Delicious and
101 Cookbooks amongst many others.
Makes about 1 Litre
- 1kg ripe tomatoes, halved, woody core removed
- 1 medium red onion, cut into 8 lengthways
- 1-2 bell peppers, or a few smaller sweet peppers, halved, de-seeded
- 1 whole head garlic
- a bunch of thyme, or oregano, leaves only
- a few sprigs of rosemary, whole
- a drizzle of balsamic vinegar
- a sprinkle of sugar
- a dusting of ground black pepper
- olive oil
- 1 carrot, diced
- half a white onion, diced
- tomato paste
- 1-2 teaspoons mild smoked paprika
- a pinch of cayenne pepper
- water, vegetable stock or chicken stock
- mascarpone, or double cream
- salt to to taste
- a few basil leaves or minced chives for decoration
- a drizzle of cream
- a swirl of olive oil
- roasted sesame seeds
- goats cheese or feta, crumbled
- a sprinkle of paprika
- a few reserved roast tomatoes, minced
Preheat the oven to 190°C/375°F/Gas Mark 5.
Halve the tomatoes and remove the hard woody core.
Oil a baking tin (not too shallow), layer in the tomatoes skin-side down, drizzle with more olive oil, a squirt of balsamic vinegar sprinkle over about a teaspoon of golden sugar
scatter over the leaves stripped from a bunch of thyme or oregano and a good grinding of black pepper.
Slide the tray into the middle of the oven for about an hour until all the tomatoes are well softened, and a few are blackening.
Oil a second baking tray.
Remove the stems from the peppers, halve and de-seed them and layer them skin-side down in the tray.
Peel the red onion and cut into 8 leaving on the root part to hold them together. Scatter in the tray.
Add a few sprigs of rosemary, left whole and throw in the whole head of garlic, only removing any loose skins.
Drizzle with olive oil, then add to the oven too - above or below the tomatoes.
Over the course of an hour or so occasionally switch the trays so nothing burns. At the end everything should be well softened with some dark roasting here and there.
You might need to remove the garlic head early.
Peel the carrot and the white half onion and cut into small dice.
Heat a knob of butter in a fairly large pan and sweat the carrots for a while, then add the onions, adding more butter as necessary.
When everything is well softened without significant browning, add the tomato paste, if using, and cook it until it darkens and loses any hint of bitterness.
Sprinkle in the paprika and sweat until melts into the vegetables and loses any harsh aroma.
Pop or squeeze out the garlic cloves from the head and add to the pan.
Remove the rosemary sprigs and add the contents of both baking tins to the pan, washing in the scraps from the tins with a little water or stock.
Blend or purée the soup until smooth.
Blend in a few tablespoons of mascarpone if using (and you don't intend to freeze the soup, in which case best add that after thawing it out again).
Adjust the seasoning and the thickness with water or stock.
Serve with a drizzle of olive oil or double cream if you like, and a scattering of basil leaves or chives.
You could also top with some roasted sesame seeds, crumbled goats cheese, more paprika, or a few reserved roast tomatoes chopped small.
Lamb Cutlets with Pea and Lettuce Ragout
main meat
I adapted
Tom Kitchin's
ragout to serve with lamb cutlets.
Though I can attest that it's also good with rump.
Serves 2
- 4 French trimmed bone lamb cutlets
- 2 carrots, peeled and diced
- 35ml olive oil
- 100g smoked bacon or pancetta lardons
- 1 tsp ground cumin and ground cardamom
- 100g frozen peas
- 1-2 heads baby gem lettuce, quartered
- 150ml lamb stock, reduced by half
Peel and dice the carrots into cubes about the size of a couple of peas.
Blanch in salted, boiling water for a minute or two until tender, then flash chill in ice water and reserve until needed.
Reduce 150ml of lamb stock by about half.
Fry, grill or barbecue the lamb chops for about 6 minutes per side until the fat gets crispy. Leave to rest, covered, for half the cooking time.
Quarter the lettuce lengthways and season with olive oil, salt and pepper.
Caramelize under the grill for 8-10 minutes.
10 minutes before serving, heat a little oil in a sauté or frying pan. Add the lardons and gently fry until they render their fat and are coloured all over.
Add a pinch or two of ground cumin and cardamom powder.
Set the pan aside.
To finish the ragoüt, add the blanched carrots and the frozen peas to the lardons.
Cover with the reduced lamb stock along with any cooking juices from the chops.
Leave to simmer for 2 minutes, or until the peas are tender.
Season with salt and pepper, if necessary.
To plate, slice your lamb cutlets, and place on top of the charred lettuce. Cover in ragoüt and enjoy!
By Karl
Peppers Stuffed with Mascarpone and Apricots
side veg
I made this with those long thin sweet red peppers - I don't think you could use bell peppers; the filling would be overwhelming.
Also I used those moist dried apricots, if that's not a contradiction in terms.
- sweet red peppers
- mascarpone
- double cream
- soft dried apricots
- grated parmesan cheese
Pre-heat the oven to Gas Mark 3-4.
Blanch the peppers in boiling water for a few dozen seconds, drain, then slice them open along one side and remove the core and seeds.
Leave them otherwise intact.
Chop the soft apricots, mash cream into the mascarpone to loosen it, and mix in the apricots.
Oil a baking dish. Stuff the peppers with the mascarpone mixture and lay them slit-side up in the dish.
Give them an extra drizzle of olive oil and bake for 20-30 minutes until the peppers are tender and the cheese filling is bubbling.
Sprinkle the dish with grated parmesan and return it to the oven to melt just before serving.
By Karl
Super-Garlic and Soy Sauce Dressing
dressing veg vegan
Perfect for dressing half a toasted ciabatta roll covered with crispy fried onions, mashed avocado, melted cheese, and topped with a fried egg. Yum!
Dresses 4 avocado toasts
- lots of garlic, puréed
- ½ tsp black pepper
- juice of ½ lemon - about 2 tblsps
- 2 tblsps soy sauce
- equal quantity of olive oil
- couple dashes Tabasco hot sauce, or possibly minced red chillies
Crush the garlic with some black pepper into a paste using the side of a knife.
In a jam jar mix the garlic with the juice of half a lemon, and about the same volume of soy sauce (perhaps 2-3 tablespoons of each).
Double the whole volume with olive oil.
Season with hot sauce , shake and serve.
By Karl
Quick and Dirty Satay Ramen
main veg oriental pasta
A way to tart up a packet of cheap ramen noodles.
Especially if they're supposed to already be satay flavoured.
I know. I know. I'm ashamed.
Serves One
- ½ tsp chilli flakes
- 1 tsp mild, preferably coarse, chilli powder or paprika
- 2 cloves garlic, minced
- 1 spring onion, sliced, green and white parts separated
- ½ fresh red chilli, sliced
- 1 tblsp soy sauce
- 1 tblsp sesame oil
- 1 packet ramen noodles
- stock or water
- 1 tblsp crunchy peanut butter
- 1 tsp honey
- 1 tblsp sour cream
- 1 hard-boiled egg
Take a small pan.
First fill it with water and boil an egg, quick-chill it, shell it and cut it in half.
Next heat a pool of oil in the pan, throw in the chilli flakes, after they sizzle throw in the minced garlic, then the white parts of the spring onion.
Add a teaspoon of chilli powder or paprika of some kind and swirl.
Pour out and set aside - it will do for two portions of noodles.
Add a little stock and water to the pan, mix in the peanut butter and the honey, add any flavour packets from the ramen, bring to the boil and add the noodles.
Cook until the noodles are al dente, remove from the heat and stir in the sour cream.
Put a spoonful of the chilli oil and the soy sauce in the bottom of a bowl, pour in the pan of noodles, add the halved boiled egg, dress with the sesame oil,
extra chilli oil or chilli sauce and sprinkle over the green parts of the spring onion and some sliced red chilli.
By Karl
Easy Ramen
snack veg
For those days when you don't feel like cooking, but you still gotta eat.
Serves One
- 1 packet instant Ramen
- 1-2 tsps soy sauce
- hot sauce
- 1 egg yolk
- 1-2 tblsps Mayonnaise
- splash mirin
- dash rice vinegar
- drizzle sesame oil
- spring onions or wild garlic, chopped
Cook the noodles and all the package flavourings in only the water needed to cover them. Take them off the heat.
Finely slice the toppings.
Mix the egg yolk with all the other ingredients.
Stir the mixture through the noodles, then heat gently while stirring until the sauce thickens.
Add the topping, a drizzle more of sesame oil, and chow down.
By Spain
Chorizo in Cider
meat snack
Apparently a not uncommon tapas in Asturias, northern Spain.
You'll need to use fresh sausage chorizo, not the dried, cured, salami kind.
Serves 6-8
- 2 fresh chorizos, sliced
- about 200ml still vintage dry cider to cover
- a couple of bay leaves
Cut the chorizo into 1" slices.
Put them in a small saucepan or ovenproof dish with a couple of bay leaves .
Cover with a good quality dry cider.
Boil for 15 minutes, simmer gently for an hour, or stick in a low oven for a couple of hours.
The cider should have reduced down to a rich syrup when it's ready.
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