Hog!
I make this entry under protest so that my fellow code-monkey The Cave Bague can get my recipe for hog roast vindaloo. Some day soon I'll fill in all the other missing holes in my diary, but until then here's one hole filled at least...
So it started with East Coast Sailing Festival at Port Edgar, and four days of stiff sailing competition in which we managed both a couple of first places and at least one last. On Saturday night though, the entertainment committee arranged for a hog roast (together with the usual beer tent and ethnic dance music), and having paid a ludicrous five pounds for a tinder-dry hog-roast-roll and missing out on the cut-price £2.50 clearance at the end of the night, I asked the nice hog roast man what he intended doing with the leftover carcass.
Since it seemed a pity to let him give it away to a kennel I asked if I could have it for stock and he kindly filled a binliner with the bones and more than a little leftover wads of meat still attached. Much to the boat skipper's horror when he came to poke around in the fridge onboard next morning!
After stripping down the bones and roasting them to make a deliciously rich pork stock I had enough meat (plus fat and the odd bit of gristle) to knock up a hog roast stroganoff for four to see us through the annual fireworks concert marking the finale of the Fringe Festival, as seen from the fantastic vantage point of the top floor bedrooms of Flora's family home (thanks Flora!). And an excellent vindaloo to go with the two other curries I already had standing by.
Hopefully this'll stop yer moaning John :)
Peace.
Hog Roast Vindaloo
Pork
meat curry main
When the Portuguese arrived in Goa they brought with them barrels of pork preserved in red wine vinegar and garlic for the making of
Carne de Vinha d'Alhos,
eventually adapting this pork adobo to the local ingredients by pickling in fermented palm wine vinegar, sweetening with jaggery,
adding Indian spices: tamarind, sumac (surprisingly), cassia, cardamom, and of course absorbing a large amount of red chilli.
And renaming it Vindaloo.
Obviously the recipe became further bastardised by the British restaurant trade which gradually eroded it's distinctive vinegar and garlic flavours, made it hotter than the sun, and began adulterating it with tomatoes and potatoes.
This recipe is a throwback to the earlier version - though you can of course make it as hot as you can bear. Or hotter.
It just so happened that my yacht club had a hog roast one of the days it hosted East Coast Sailing Festival, so I begged the carcass afterwards, which they would otherwise have given to a dogs' home. I made an excellent stock from the bones, and stripped off enough good hog flesh to make this vindaloo.
And a stroganoff.
And a few pork sandwiches.
And a nice cardigan.
Obviously the recipe became further bastardised by the British restaurant trade which gradually eroded it's distinctive vinegar and garlic flavours, made it hotter than the sun, and began adulterating it with tomatoes and potatoes.
This recipe is a throwback to the earlier version - though you can of course make it as hot as you can bear. Or hotter.
It just so happened that my yacht club had a hog roast one of the days it hosted East Coast Sailing Festival, so I begged the carcass afterwards, which they would otherwise have given to a dogs' home. I made an excellent stock from the bones, and stripped off enough good hog flesh to make this vindaloo.
And a stroganoff.
And a few pork sandwiches.
And a nice cardigan.
Serves 4
Ingredients
- 2lb (1kg) pork
For The Marinade:- ⅓ - ½ cup (90ml - 140ml) palm or red wine vinegar
- 1 tbsp tamarind paste
- 1 tbsp jaggery, palm sugar or brown sugar
- 6 cloves garlic
- 2" piece ginger
- with
- 10 dried red chillies or 20!
- 1 tsp cumin seeds
- 4 black cardamoms, seeds only
- 1 tsp fenugreek seeds
- 1 tsp popppy seeds
- 5 cloves
- 1 inch cassia bark
- 10 black peppercorns
- ½ tsp turmeric
- 1 tsp chilli powder or to taste
- 1 tsp salt
The Rest:- 1 tsp brown mustard seeds
- 10 fresh curry leaves or 20 dried will do
- 3 onions, finely chopped
- 4 green chillies or to taste
- ½ head garlic, peeled, cut into slivers
Dry-fry the whole marinade spices without burning until they release their aroma. Grind to a powder with the salt and powders. Set aside.
Process together the vinegar, garlic, ginger, tamarind and sugar to a paste and add the ground spices.
Cut the pork into bite-sized pieces, coat thoroughly with the marinade, and set aside for several hours or a couple of days.
Finely chop the onion don't be concerned that there appears to be too much - it will reduce to nothing!. Pour a generous amount of ghee or oil in a large frying pan or casserole and set over a high heat. When shimmering, throw in the mustard seeds and shake until they start to pop, add the curry leaves until they fizz, then throw in the chopped onions. Continue cooking over high heat, stirring frequently, until they turn glassy but not brown, then turn down the heat and cook gently, stirring occasionally, until they reach a uniform caramel colour. Don't let them burn.
Shake any excess marinade from the pork and add to the onions, frying until the spices are cooked and the oil separates.
Remove the onions and set aside.
Re-oil and re-heat the pan, then over a high heat fry the pork (in batches if necessary) to brown. Add back the onion mixture, add a little water if necessary, cover and cook gently over a low heat until the pork is tender - about 1 hour. if you're using cooked pork, as I did, you only need to cook the spices through - perhaps 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, heat ghee/oil in a clean pan and gently fry the garlic slivers for about 20 minutes until soft and translucent but not burnt. Add to the meat before serving.
Process together the vinegar, garlic, ginger, tamarind and sugar to a paste and add the ground spices.
Cut the pork into bite-sized pieces, coat thoroughly with the marinade, and set aside for several hours or a couple of days.
Finely chop the onion don't be concerned that there appears to be too much - it will reduce to nothing!. Pour a generous amount of ghee or oil in a large frying pan or casserole and set over a high heat. When shimmering, throw in the mustard seeds and shake until they start to pop, add the curry leaves until they fizz, then throw in the chopped onions. Continue cooking over high heat, stirring frequently, until they turn glassy but not brown, then turn down the heat and cook gently, stirring occasionally, until they reach a uniform caramel colour. Don't let them burn.
Shake any excess marinade from the pork and add to the onions, frying until the spices are cooked and the oil separates.
Remove the onions and set aside.
Re-oil and re-heat the pan, then over a high heat fry the pork (in batches if necessary) to brown. Add back the onion mixture, add a little water if necessary, cover and cook gently over a low heat until the pork is tender - about 1 hour. if you're using cooked pork, as I did, you only need to cook the spices through - perhaps 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, heat ghee/oil in a clean pan and gently fry the garlic slivers for about 20 minutes until soft and translucent but not burnt. Add to the meat before serving.
Turmeric Mustard Courgette
curry veg side
I decided to have a go at duplicating an old cucumber curry recipe
only with courgettes. From my neighbour Nancy's allotment.
Works pretty well!
Works pretty well!
Serves 4
Ingredients
- ghee
- 2 courgettes, chopped
- 1 tsp mustard
- 2 tsps turmeric
- 1 tsp salt
- ½ tsp chilli powder
- 2 cloves garlic, crushed optional
Mix the powder spices with enough water to make a thick paste.
Cut the courgettes lengthwise into quarters, then chop into 1" pieces.
Heat a generous amount of ghee in a heavy pot then add the spice paste and fry until the oil separates and any raw smell has cooked off.
Add the crushed garlic, if using.
Add the courgettes, and over a fairly high heat, stir to coat the pieces evenly and fry until the courgettes begin to collapse.
Turn down the heat and cook uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the sauce has thickened.
Quite nice - the turmeric and mustard give a nice sharp but earthy flavour.
Not quite sure about the garlic - you might prefer not to use it. Like the original recipe, fresh ginger might be a better option.
Not quite sure about the garlic - you might prefer not to use it. Like the original recipe, fresh ginger might be a better option.
Green Pepper Keema
curry main meat
A handy way of using up leftover mince.
I had leftover pork mince (as I discovered after I'd defrosted it),
which is a bit odd for a keema if not downright sacrilegious, but it tasted really good.
I didn't really record the exact quantities - so just go wild and throw in what you feel :)
I didn't really record the exact quantities - so just go wild and throw in what you feel :)
Serves 4
Ingredients
- ghee
- star anise
- black cardamoms, pierced
- cassia
- whole cloves
- onion seeds
- red chillies
- cumin powder
- turmeric
- salt
- mince I used pork, as it turned out, but beef or lamb would be fine
- 1 onion, roughly chopped
- green pepper, roughly chopped
- fresh red chillies, chopped into fat rings
- 4 cloves garlic, crushed
- small bunch coriander leaves
Heat a generous amount of ghee in a large frying pan and fry the large whole spices until they release their aroma.
Throw in the onion seeds until they spit, then add the mince and fry over high heat until colouring.
Add the chopped onion and fry until transparent, then add the powdered spices and salt, stir through, then add the green pepper, fresh chilli and crushed garlic.
Stir, turn down the heat, cover, and cook until the pepper softens.
Pick out the whole spices and serve dressed with chopped coriander.
Throw in the onion seeds until they spit, then add the mince and fry over high heat until colouring.
Add the chopped onion and fry until transparent, then add the powdered spices and salt, stir through, then add the green pepper, fresh chilli and crushed garlic.
Stir, turn down the heat, cover, and cook until the pepper softens.
Pick out the whole spices and serve dressed with chopped coriander.
Very good. A hot dry curry that needs to be served with a moist one, such as Turmeric Courgettes.
Hog Roast Stroganoff
main meat
Like beef stroganoff. Only with leftover hog roast.
Traditionally served with matchstick french fries, a ribbon pasta (linguine/fettuccine) or rice are also acceptable.
Traditionally served with matchstick french fries, a ribbon pasta (linguine/fettuccine) or rice are also acceptable.
Serves 4
Ingredients
- 1lb leftover hog roast, or thinly sliced beef fillet, sirloin or tenderloin
- 1 onion or 6 shallots, quartered and thinly sliced
- dozen button mushrooms, quartered or sliced
- 1 tsp smoked paprika this deep, rich Spanish paprika is excellent, though for authenticity it ought to be Hungarian
- 300ml/10fl oz soured cream
- 2 tsp lemon juice
- small handful of parsley leaves, finely chopped
- salt
- freshly ground black pepper
- oil
- butter
Optional Flavours:- garlic, thinly sliced
- tomato purée
- Dijon mustard
If you're using raw meat fry it quickly in very hot oil in batches, stirring for about a minute. Season and set aside.
Heat the butter until it stops foaming and fry the onions until soft and sweet but not browned, stir through a teaspoon of paprika. Add the mushrooms and fry until softening.
Add the cooked meat, and any flavourings (though probably not all of them!), then add the sour cream and warm through without boiling lest the cream curdle.
Stir in lemon juice and parsley, and serve dressed with parsley sprigs and a sprinkling of paprika.
Heat the butter until it stops foaming and fry the onions until soft and sweet but not browned, stir through a teaspoon of paprika. Add the mushrooms and fry until softening.
Add the cooked meat, and any flavourings (though probably not all of them!), then add the sour cream and warm through without boiling lest the cream curdle.
Stir in lemon juice and parsley, and serve dressed with parsley sprigs and a sprinkling of paprika.
Delicious hog!
I may have added garlic, but this time no mustard (or tomato), and I skipped the lemon juice too.
I may have added garlic, but this time no mustard (or tomato), and I skipped the lemon juice too.
Bloody BBC!
Bloody BBC - at it again!
Now they're cheerfully engaging in the smear campaign organised by those warmongering loons seeking to foment a confrontation with Russia.
At least this time they had the decency to apologise:
To: Today.Complaints@bbc.co.uk
Date:Fri, Feb 20, 2015 at 10:55 AM
Subject: Propaganda and Dishonesty on the Today Programme
20th February 2015
The House of Lords European Union Committee today published a report titled The EU and Russia: before and beyond the crisis in Ukraine largely critical of British and EU anticipation of Russia's behaviour in its satellite states, stating We also observe that there has been a strong element of sleep-walking into the current crisis, with Member States being taken by surprise by events in Ukraine
Well, here's the BBC at its objective finest for you: I've transcribed part of this morning's Today programme [from 8:34:45] featuring John Humphreys and James Naughtie in the preamble to their interview with former Chief of the Air Staff Sir Michael Graydon and Sir Andrew Wood, former British Ambassador to Moscow:
Europe has been sleep-walking into a crisis with Russia, we've just been hearing, failing to understand President Putin's expansionist strategy and his vision of the European Union as a rival so says the EU committee of the Lords...
This is a lie.
EVERY use of the word expansion in the document in question refers to NATO expansion (10 times!) and the ONLY use of the term expansionist in the document is in this quote:
Ms Sabine Lösing MEP said that we are witnessing an intense power political struggle in which it was the West that initiated the contest with its expansionist policies and where Russia now also increasingly reverts to hard power politics..
In other words the BBC is deliberately and dishonestly mis-representing the report by claiming it talks about Russian expansionism, when in fact it is NATO expansionist policies that the document blames for Russia's subsequent reaction in the Ukraine and beyond.
An utterly disgraceful example of mendacious pro-EU propaganda by the BBC.
Disgusted of Edinburgh
To: Karl <karl@cookingwithkarl.co.uk>
Date: Mon, Mar 9, 2015 at 11:32 AM
Subject: RE: Propaganda and Dishonesty on the Today Programme
Thanks for writing and apologies for taking so long to come back to you. I apologise for the use of the word expansionist in this instance. The House of Lords Committee does not describe Putin's strategy in this way, as you point out. Thank you for the feedback.
Kind regards
Sarah Nelson
Today
Have a herring.
A Supper in Brown
Well, it's Valentine's Day - time for another lonely dinner. They are the best kind.
My workmate Ewan Ratbird brought in a haystack-load of rosemary he'd trimmed off the bush in his garden, so I thought I'd have another go at René Redzepi's Aromatic cauliflower in vinegared whey with warm butter yoghurt and horseradish cream but this time without the cheese. And with the whey.
I served it up to myself with a fried pork chop, pan-roasted mushrooms and, best of all, microwaved, frozen mashed potato. The shame (thanks ex-flatmate Peter).
Yumsk!
Pity, when I planned the meal, I hadn't considered how very brown the thing would be. A sort of Anti-Valentine Day Dinner if you like.
Meanwhile, I've finally used up the last of my (un-frozen) haggis. Plus the last few scraps of my gold leaf to decorate a particularly scabby looking Golden Haggis™ Mark II.
Not my finest hour!
On a slightly more colourful note...
It's been time once again to scrub the 707s ready for their next season of sailing. I decided to make a Thermos of soup to take along, and remembering how Rachel once said she'd like to try some borscht I thought I'd give that a go.
Make the most of it girl - once you get yourself a boyfriend you'll be back to doing all your own cooking!
Borsch, Borshch or Borscht
Beetroot Soup
soup meat
Borscht. So good they named it three times.
If you want to start a fist-fight between a Ukrainian, a Russian and a Pole, just ask them who invented Borscht, how to spell it, or how to make it.
I created this recipe from a combination of ideas by Keith Floyd, John Torode and Felicity Cloake
A borscht purist would probably not include the apple, and replace the butter with salted pork fat. They might make a stock with pork (or beef) bones and the first round of vegetables, strain it, then use this to cook grated (or juiced) beetroot only to make a clearer soup. You could then also add little mushroom dumplings (uszka) too.
Choose a dice (or slice) size for the vegetables that suits you. (Or your Thermos)
Personally I like adding beetroot juice at the end, rather than grated beetroot. It doesn't need cooking so you can just heat and serve - and it retains it's fresh earthiness. And vivid colour.
If you want to start a fist-fight between a Ukrainian, a Russian and a Pole, just ask them who invented Borscht, how to spell it, or how to make it.
I created this recipe from a combination of ideas by Keith Floyd, John Torode and Felicity Cloake
A borscht purist would probably not include the apple, and replace the butter with salted pork fat. They might make a stock with pork (or beef) bones and the first round of vegetables, strain it, then use this to cook grated (or juiced) beetroot only to make a clearer soup. You could then also add little mushroom dumplings (uszka) too.
Choose a dice (or slice) size for the vegetables that suits you. (Or your Thermos)
Personally I like adding beetroot juice at the end, rather than grated beetroot. It doesn't need cooking so you can just heat and serve - and it retains it's fresh earthiness. And vivid colour.
Serves 6
Ingredients
- 50g butter
- 1 onion, chopped
- 1-2 sticks celery, chopped
- 250g bacon or pork fat salted will work
- 1 carrot, diced or sliced
- 1 parsnip, diced or sliced
- 300g beetroot, peeled, chopped
- 1-2 litres beef stock
- 3-4 allspice berries
- couple bay leaves
- 2 floury potatoes, peeled, diced
- ½ cabbage, sliced
- a few fresh or dried mushrooms, chopped definitely optional
- 1 leek, sliced, washed
- 1 apple, peeled, cored, chopped
- about 500g beetroot, juiced
- 4-6 cloves garlic, crushed
- couple tablespoons cider vinegar
- sour cream with or without horseradish
- vodka?
- a few dill sprigs
Chop the onion, celery and bacon or pork fat.
Dice (or grate, if you prefer) a medium-sized (300g) beetroot. Juice the rest.
Dice, grate or slice the peeled carrot. Dice or slice the peeled parsnip Dice the peeled potato. Slice the leek and wash thoroughly. Thinly slice the cabbage.
Sweat the onions, celery, chopped beetroot and carrots in the butter and/or pork fat until well coated and the onions have turned glassy.
Pour over the stock and add the allspice, bay leaves, parsnip and potatoes. Cook until the vegetables have all softened (10-15 minutes).
Peel and chop the apple into generous chunks, then add them the leek and the sliced cabbage and cook until soft - about 10 minutes.
Add the crushed garlic, vinegar, the beetroot juice and reheat.
Serve with a dollop of sour cream and a few dill fronds.
Dice (or grate, if you prefer) a medium-sized (300g) beetroot. Juice the rest.
Dice, grate or slice the peeled carrot. Dice or slice the peeled parsnip Dice the peeled potato. Slice the leek and wash thoroughly. Thinly slice the cabbage.
Sweat the onions, celery, chopped beetroot and carrots in the butter and/or pork fat until well coated and the onions have turned glassy.
Pour over the stock and add the allspice, bay leaves, parsnip and potatoes. Cook until the vegetables have all softened (10-15 minutes).
Peel and chop the apple into generous chunks, then add them the leek and the sliced cabbage and cook until soft - about 10 minutes.
Add the crushed garlic, vinegar, the beetroot juice and reheat.
Serve with a dollop of sour cream and a few dill fronds.
Excellent soup, quite inappropriate for filling a Thermos flask though - being so chunky and all. Bring along a spoon!
You could enliven it with a dash of vodka if you like, and a bit of horseradish in the sour cream is quite nice too.
The soup tastes better after its been left to mature for a day, but I'd still add the beetroot juice fresh before serving.
You could enliven it with a dash of vodka if you like, and a bit of horseradish in the sour cream is quite nice too.
The soup tastes better after its been left to mature for a day, but I'd still add the beetroot juice fresh before serving.
Gie her a Golden Haggis
Gag His Sadder Oats mashed on Burns Night
17 letters
Is what I'd put, if I were a crossword-puzzle writer.
It's offal time again - seems to come around earlier every year!
Since the yacht club turned down my home-made haggis for their Burns' supper, I had to entertain myself and a few chosen friends with a supper of our own.
Some friends have sturdier constitutions than others - and better late than never eh Aidan & Jude?
Anyway, this year's piece of resistance was the one, the only, the fabulous Golden Haggis™.
I had the idea last year, but didn't get round to making any haggis then, so this year it is. It takes a bit of time (and money) tracking down decent gold foil and it's damn tricky to work with too. I doubt I'll be getting much practice with it. I imagined it might go on smoother than it did - the Golden Haggis looked a teeny bit scabrous.
Still bloody magnificent though - the yacht club's loss I reckon.
As usual despite my detailed itinerary - I had a bit of a struggle getting everything ready at the same time, what with fiddling decorating the Golden Haggis and all.
Making (and cooking up) the haggis itself only took me an evening after work though. Say 5 hours. So no excuses for the rest of you.
Must investigate ways of keeping mashed potatoes (and neeps) warm without drying them out. It would make life a lot easier
Be sure to keep those potato skins too - you can fill them with haggis, top with potato, cover with cheese and bake them as a little haggis snack.
When later you have enough haggis to feed an army and no army to feed.
That is one of the drawbacks of making haggis. You have to make sooooo much! Thank God it's only once a year.
No More Page 3
Apparently this is a victory for feminism.
Personally I think that any feminist who finds themselves siding with the Taliban in dictating to other women what they can and cannot (mostly cannot) be allowed to do with their bodies needs to seriously re-examine their personal philosophy.
But hey that's just me.
Revisitations
Well, it's leftover Christmas week month. As usual.
Not only do I have my own leftover cheese to eat up, but this year I've also got Flora's. And her leftover sprouts.
Yippee!
Flora kindly donated a tub of salmon pâté, an overripe Chaource and one of the rare and relatively short-seasoned wooden tubs of Vacherin Mont d'Or. It was absolutely fabulous scooped straight out of its box with hunks of bread, but unfortunately a little too ripe to bake. Consequently I revisited a couple of my staple cheese-guzzling recipes - tartiflette and cheese risotto.
I made the tartiflette with the Mont d'Or I couldn't manage to guzzle raw, the Chaource sans greying, stinking rind and the salmon pâté and very nice it was too. So you don't need to restrict yourself to Reblochon, whatever those Savoy cheesemakers' aggressive PR agents might want you to believe.
I also revisited another couple of dishes from a previous mustard feast this week for our West Coast Charter Reunion Dinner. After the success of our original charter holiday we thought we'd enter the expedition log into our yacht club's annual competition. Which was all the excuse we needed to get together and eat and drink whilst pretending to write it up.
I had another go at getting a crispy crust on the intriguing oyster-stuffed saddle of lamb (distinctly rubbery the first time around - and I promised myself I'd take another run at it), and getting the timing right for the complementary butternut squash gratin. The secret there being to cook it for an hour longer than you thought it could possibly take. Still a bit too much of an onion-string-vest vibe about it for my taste though. Might be worth a re-re-visit.
O Christmas Tree
Christmas Is Here!
Finally I can stop baking and start roasting.
Finally I can stop baking and start roasting.
Evidently sauerkraut and mushroom pierogis are a Polish Christmas Eve staple, so I thought I'd give them a go as this year's starter with a piscine twist.
I decided this year we'd also try a spiced cranberry and apple stuffing as recommended by Mum and Delia Smith. What could go wrong?
Things we (re-)learned this Christmas:
- Sauerkraut and mushroom stuffed filo pastry parcels are much too fiddly for a Christmas starter.
- Mum's favoured spiced cranberry and apple stuffing is far too tart and practically inedible in any quantity. Just goes to show you can't trust anyone these days. Maybe next year I'll have a go with a potato-based stuffing for a change?
- Kurt's new gas oven still cooks a 10lb (pre-stuffing) goose in under 4 hours.
- Kurt really needs a meat thermometer.
- You can leave the crusts in your bread sauce, but I still say it's a bit weird.
- Don't forget to add the leftover goose to the pilaf - it's the whole bloody point!
- No one eats liver paté at Christmas - no matter how seasonal it is.
- You can never have too much bacon.
- You can have too much cheese.
Pre-Christmas Leftovers
I'd originally planned to test pumpkin and amaretti ravioli as part of my annual pumpkin fiesta (as a possible Christmas starter), but didn't get around to it, so we had them today. Along with a first run at sauerkraut and mushroom file parcels - the eventual winner.
A big pot of tarragon-flavoured mussels handy since I needed some mussel stock for the file parcels! and home-made vanilla ice cream with cocoa-meringue to follow completed the meal plan.
You wouldn't believe the washing up, though my flatmate Peter now does. Must be the difference between a three- and four-course meal.
Things I learned today:
- Don't feed almond biscuits to someone who's told you they have a nut allergy. Idiot!
- If you have a lot of leftover mussels and sauerkraut, you can do worse than cook them up with some pasta
Amaretti Biscuits
sweet veg
The original recipe calls for cooking the cookies at 160°C/325°F/Gas 3 for 15 minutes, but that simply wasn't happening for me,
so I turned my oven up to 180°C/350°F/Gas 4 which cooked them in the advertised time.
But I'm finding they come out crunchier if left for longer at the lower heat say 25 to 35 minutes as
David Lebowitz suggests.
Makes about 20 biscuits
Ingredients
- 340g/12oz ground almonds
- 340g/12oz caster sugar
- 4 eggs, whites only
- 30ml/1fl oz amaretto liquor
- butter, for greasing
Preheat the oven to 160°C/325°F/Gas 3.
In a large bowl beat the egg whites until soft-peaking - the consistency of softly whipped cream.
Mix the sugar and the almonds gently into it. Add the amaretto liquor and fold in gently until you have a smooth paste.
Place some baking parchment on a baking sheet lightly brushed with butter. Using two dessert spoons place small heaps or quenelles of the mixture approximately 2cm/¾in apart as they will expand whilst cooking. Bake in the oven for approximately 25-35 minutes until golden brown.
In a large bowl beat the egg whites until soft-peaking - the consistency of softly whipped cream.
Mix the sugar and the almonds gently into it. Add the amaretto liquor and fold in gently until you have a smooth paste.
Place some baking parchment on a baking sheet lightly brushed with butter. Using two dessert spoons place small heaps or quenelles of the mixture approximately 2cm/¾in apart as they will expand whilst cooking. Bake in the oven for approximately 25-35 minutes until golden brown.
Really tasty, though you need to bake them until they're edging towards caramel brown if you want them at all crispy.
They keep very well, and gradually harden if anything so bake them early if you're thinking of incorporating them into
pumpkin ravioli.
The Spoils of Autumn
I had a lot of seasonal leftovers to eat up, what with Christmas coming and all. Pumpkin mostly. Lots of pumpkin. Plus some Cavolo Nero.
So today I had a quick dinner of homemade (defrosted) herb sausage with a rich onion gravy, onion and cavolo nero with horseradish and cream, and boiled potatoes dressed with sage butter to keep me going.
Yumsk.
Onion Gravy
sauce veg
Following Fiona Becket's method
is great for making a decent gravy when you don't have roast juices to use, but you do have some decent stock.
Thoroughly caramelising the onions, as for French onion soup, gives the soup excellent body, and a smooth gravy results from straining them back out again.
Thoroughly caramelising the onions, as for French onion soup, gives the soup excellent body, and a smooth gravy results from straining them back out again.
Serves 4
Ingredients
- 1 tablespoon olive oil
- 100g butter
- 1-2 onions, sliced
- de-glazing liquor of choice I used Grand Marnier and Cognac
- 3 tablespoons plain flour
- 1 pint/500ml stock
- flavourings of choice
Heat the olive oil and the butter then add the onions and cook over high heat, stirring regularly, until they begin to darken.
Turn down the heat and cook gently, stirring frequently, until thoroughly caramelised, but not burnt, as if you were making French Onion Soup.
Press the gravy through a sieve to remove any lumps and the remains of the onions, add any flavourings you like wine, cider, port, fruit juice, etc, adjust the consistency, season, serve.
You can add bicarbonate of soda and a little sugar to the onions to speed up this process.
Add the flour, and stir until cooked and separating a little from the fat, then de-glaze the pan with liquor,
then add the stock gradually, whisking thoroughly at each step.Press the gravy through a sieve to remove any lumps and the remains of the onions, add any flavourings you like wine, cider, port, fruit juice, etc, adjust the consistency, season, serve.
Excellent, though I suspect it largely depends on the quality of your stock.
Of course mine was superb!
Of course mine was superb!
Pumpkin, Pumpkin, Pumpkin, Dark Side
Pumpkins retire
as Fall fog rolls in from the Forth,
my desire is always to save some.
Oh cull of Hallow's Eve.
To the tune of Mull of Kintyre
Having secured my annual pumpkin collection before the stroke of midnight on Hallowe'en I was equipped to raise the
ghosts of
pumpkins past
in the shape of yet another Pumpkin in a Chicken in a Pumpkin™.
I repeated the tasty stuffing I used in my Classic Pumpkin except that I processed up hazelnuts instead of the chestnuts. To be honest I thought them too grainy despite being chopped quite small (which seems to be a persistent feature of the nut) and as usual the stuffing ended up unnaturally soggy.
I'm starting to think that next year I might approach the whole thing from a more pot-roast direction - after all it ain't really a roast chicken, so much as a poached one. I should stop fighting this, I suspect it's where the moist succulence of the chicken all comes from anyway, and abandon traditionally stuffing the chicken at all (I could always cook a stuffing separately which is usually better anyway). Perhaps surrounding the chicken with vegetables and stock, or just sticking in a few bits of fruit - apple chunks maybe? It would stop me worrying so much about the build-up of liquid in the pumpkin. Though it's a good idea to keep it to a minimum lest the squash split and spill liquid all over your oven.
Anyway, it all turned out nicely enough - Alex One and Caroline kindly came around to help me eat it. I served it with mashed herbed potatoes, glazed carrots with sage Nice! and creamy mustard Cavolo Nero which I bought to have another stab at kale and pumpkin soup with my anticipated leftovers.
They also tried out my liver dates with a garlicky mushroom salad. They really liked the salad!
Things I re-learned about making Chicken in a Pumpkin:
I repeated the tasty stuffing I used in my Classic Pumpkin except that I processed up hazelnuts instead of the chestnuts. To be honest I thought them too grainy despite being chopped quite small (which seems to be a persistent feature of the nut) and as usual the stuffing ended up unnaturally soggy.
I'm starting to think that next year I might approach the whole thing from a more pot-roast direction - after all it ain't really a roast chicken, so much as a poached one. I should stop fighting this, I suspect it's where the moist succulence of the chicken all comes from anyway, and abandon traditionally stuffing the chicken at all (I could always cook a stuffing separately which is usually better anyway). Perhaps surrounding the chicken with vegetables and stock, or just sticking in a few bits of fruit - apple chunks maybe? It would stop me worrying so much about the build-up of liquid in the pumpkin. Though it's a good idea to keep it to a minimum lest the squash split and spill liquid all over your oven.
Anyway, it all turned out nicely enough - Alex One and Caroline kindly came around to help me eat it. I served it with mashed herbed potatoes, glazed carrots with sage Nice! and creamy mustard Cavolo Nero which I bought to have another stab at kale and pumpkin soup with my anticipated leftovers.
They also tried out my liver dates with a garlicky mushroom salad. They really liked the salad!
Things I re-learned about making Chicken in a Pumpkin:
- Chicken cooked in a pumpkin is fabulously moist.
- You can keep the excess liquid to a minimum by leaving off the pumpkin lid for most of the cooking time - perhaps put it on at the beginning and the end.
- Occasionally suck out surplus fluid from inside the pumpkin with a turkey baster and use it for the gravy.
- It's not the end of the world if the chicken is too small for the pumpkin. It will poach all the same just don't try to fill the gap with stuffing, it'll just turn soggy.
- It's just impossible to tell how much space there will be inside a pumpkin until you've opened it up. Buy extra!
Yet Another Pumpkin in a Chicken in a Pumpkin
main fowl
Might be time to retire the pleasantly alliterative, but unpleasantly soggy pumpkin stuffing for a pot-roast poaching approach.
Maybe next year?
Maybe next year?
Serves Everyone
Ingredients
- a chicken
- a pumpkin
- some stuffing
Cut the top off the pumpkin and scoop out the insides. Discard.
Make the stuffing.
Preheat the oven to gas mark 9.
Give the chicken a blast in the oven to crisp up its skin. I keep doing this - no idea if it helps. It might make more sense to remove the skin altogether? Stuff the stuffing into the chicken and the chicken into the pumpkin. Put the pumpkin in a casserole dish large enough to hold the contents in case the pumpkin explodes, put the lid on the pumpkin and put the whole thing in the oven.
Reduce the oven temperature to Gas Mark 5-6.
Bake for hours until the chicken (and stuffing!) is cooked, removing the lid when it all gets too wet inside, and turning down the oven if the pumpkin starts to char.
Peel open a bib in the side of the pumpkin and serve slices of the chicken and pumpkin flesh.
Make stock for your Christmas gravy with the leftover chicken carcass.
Make the stuffing.
Preheat the oven to gas mark 9.
Give the chicken a blast in the oven to crisp up its skin. I keep doing this - no idea if it helps. It might make more sense to remove the skin altogether? Stuff the stuffing into the chicken and the chicken into the pumpkin. Put the pumpkin in a casserole dish large enough to hold the contents in case the pumpkin explodes, put the lid on the pumpkin and put the whole thing in the oven.
Reduce the oven temperature to Gas Mark 5-6.
Bake for hours until the chicken (and stuffing!) is cooked, removing the lid when it all gets too wet inside, and turning down the oven if the pumpkin starts to char.
Peel open a bib in the side of the pumpkin and serve slices of the chicken and pumpkin flesh.
Make stock for your Christmas gravy with the leftover chicken carcass.
As always, tastier than it looks!
Though mine wasn't terribly hot (not that it has to be - I used 10 small red chillies and 1 tsp chilli powder), it has a very pleasing, rich, and distinct flavour. You can always adjust the heat at the end with fresh green chillies, though I prefer a vindaloo with the heat cooked in.
If you want to be a philistine about it you can throw a few tomatoes or tomato purée in with the frying meat to make it more resemble north Indian cooking, add cream or coconut milk to smooth the sauce, or even add potatoes to bulk it out.
But you'd be wrong.