Spatch Cocks
A quick Spring catch-up. Since last we wrote there have been birthdays in Edinburgh
There were let-downs by booking.com.
There were sweet summer sails under the Forth Rail Bridge.
And there has been weird oriental cookery.
I have, over the last couple of months, made some n00b mistakes with bookings and orderings...
For some reason I found myself reading an old
Nigel Slater article
about
Thai Food by David Thompson, as you do,
and realised that I simply had to have the book.
HAD to.
So I logged straight on to amazon.co.uk and ordered it - delivered by
⭐Super Fast Ultra Express Delivery®⭐⭐.
Weird name right? Suspiciously self-promoting. Overblown. Foreign, even.
Well, did the book arrive in good condition and good time? Reader it did not. It did not arrive at all.
It was all pretty strange - the seller advertised having
4 books in stock and I got a tracking number which followed my
package across the country
until it suddenly vanished, never to be seen again. Meanwhile the seller continued advertising having those
4 books in stock.
Almost as if they had never shipped anything at all.
Now I did get my money back from Amazon quite painlessly, so nothing was lost by me, and it's not clear what if anything was gained by the seller,
but from reading their reviews
it's something they do on a regular basis. So what
is their story?
Anyhow, I ordered a copy of the book from eBay for a significant saving, coming out ahead in the end.
The book's great, by the way, though you really need to already live in Thailand, or in a really well-stocked Thai supermarket to take full advantage of it.
And then I was looking to book accommodation in Edinburgh for my friend Flora's birthday bash.
So I turned to a
booking.com which I've used to find places all across Japan with never an issue. Even with that robot hotel!
It turns out Edinburgh is
really expensive to visit if you don't have someone's house to stay in because it's full of relatives,
but
booking.com had a nice room on offer in Leith at a manageable price with a letting agent called
Luxury En-Suite Elegant Design Waterfront Leith.
Weird name, right? Seems grandiose? Bombastic? Bit foreign?
Well, when I turned up at the agreed book-in time there was nothing there. Or nothing there any longer.
It was just an apartment block, with no reception, no signage, and certainly no sign of
Luxury En-Suite Elegant Design Waterfront Leith.
Surprisingly, they did answer the phone number I'd been given and told me that they had cancelled all their bookings months ago and I should have been refunded already, but that wasn't really much help to me that night.
In the end I was able to sleep on the yacht that a bunch of us were going sailing aboard under the Forth bridges the following day
So it all worked out in the end, but it made for a late, scruffy, suitcase-laden party entrance on my part
🙁
As convenient and painless as working with
booking.com is when it works smoothly, it's a nightmare when something goes wrong.
It is completely impossible to get hold of a human being at all
- their entire contact, help and complaints system is based on conversing online with bots and that's it. No other options.
Consequently it took me weeks of constant pestering to get my refund from them, to the point where I was genuinely girding myself for legal activity.
Girding!
I'm sure there are lessons somewhere in all of that, but I've no idea what they might be
😂
Anyhoo, returning to our catch-up on spring in Bradford;
thanks to my
Cookery Classes at Kirklees College back in March I ended up with a house full of spatchcocked chicken and spatchcocked chicken carcasses.
Oh what to do?
Some kind of
chicken soup seemed to fit the bill.
Since the Wild Garlic was unusually early this year, I had to rush to pick their leaves before they turned to fibrous mattress material.
These can be added to Greek
avgolemono chicken soup to great effect.
As we now enjoy the nicest, sunniest, May Day in memory - I'm wondering if those wild garlic plants weren't peculiarly well-informed? I suspect a vegetable conspiracy.
Read on for Weird Oriental Cookery...
By the Greeks
Avgolemono Soup
soup fowl
Not only can you swirl wild garlic leaves through the soup, but I also found a plant called Garlic Mustard that has quite pretty edible flowers you can use to decorate it.
Garlic Mustard leaves themselves are a bit bitter and not particularly attractive, though.
Serves One
- 1 egg, separated
- 1 lemon, zested and juiced
- ¼ cup rice
- handful cooked chicken, shredded
- 1 small carrot cut into slivers
- 2" leek, thinly sliced
- a sprig or two of fresh oregano or thyme, leaves stripped
- salt & white pepper
- olive oil
- wild garlic leaves, roughly sliced
Bring the stock to a simmer and add the rice.
Cook for 10 minutes, then add the carrots.
Cook for 5 minutes and add the leeks, lemon zest and chopped oregano or thyme.
Cook for 5 minutes and add the chicken. Return to a simmer.
Meanwhile separate the eggs and whisk the whites to soft peaks.
Mix some of the lemon juice into the egg yolk.
Beat the whites into the yolk. Slowly pour in the soup liquid (holding back the solids) while whisking vigorously to temper the eggs.
Return the egg mix to the pan and gently warm everything up until the soup thickens slightly, but do not boil or the soup will curdle.
Season and serve with a drizzle of olive oil and more lemon juice to taste.
By Karl
Slow Mushrooms
ingredient veg
Like normal mushrooms, but with Autism.
- mixed mushrooms, thickly sliced
- garlic, thinly sliced
- salt & pepper
- toasted sesame oil
- butter
- soy sauce
Thickly slice the mushrooms , put in an oven-proof dish along with thin slices of garlic.
Season with a little salt and a generous amount of pepper, drizzle with sesame oil and soy sauce.
Dot with butter .
Cover and bake slowly at Gas Mark 2 for a couple of hours until they're tender, but not shrivelled to nothing.
Honey Miso Glazed Aubergines
veg vegan side
Nami's original recipe uses sugar instead of honey - I don't imagine it makes all that much difference,
though possibly the sugar has less of a tendency to burn under the grill.
Serves 3
- 3 Tbsp miso
- 1 Tbsp honey, or sugar
- 1 Tbsp mirin
- ½ Tbsp sake (or more, if your miso is chunky; you can use water)
- 3 Japanese eggplants (1.2 lb, 518 g)
- 1 Tbsp toasted sesame oil
- 1-2 green onions
- 5 shiso leaves (perilla/ooba)
- 2 tsp toasted white sesame seeds
Gather all the ingredients.
Set the rack in the center of the oven about 7 inches (18 cm) away from the heating element.
Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C). For convection, reduce the temperature by 25°F (15°C).
Combine 3 Tbsp miso and 1 Tbsp sugar in a small bowl. Mix well to dissolve the sugar.
Add 1 Tbsp mirin and ½ Tbsp sake and stir. If needed, you can add a bit more sake until you reach your preferred consistency, as some miso is chunkier than others.
Mix well and set aside.
Cut off the stem and calyx of 3 Japanese eggplants. Cut the eggplants in half lengthwise from stem to tip, creating boat-like halves. If your eggplants are long, you can cut them in half crosswise so they're shorter.
With the knife, score the cut surface of eggplant diagonally about ⅛ inch (3 mm) deep and apart. Work in one direction first and then the other, creating a crisscross pattern on the flesh.
Tip: In addition to improving the presentation, this crisscross scoring helps the eggplants cook faster and absorb more flavor.
Soak them in water for 10 minutes to remove the astringency. Blot them with paper towels or a clean kitchen towel and place on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper.
Brush the cut surface with 1 Tbsp toasted sesame oil. Turn them over so they are cut side down on the baking sheet.
Bake the eggplants at 425°F (220°C) for 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, cut 1 green onion/scallion into thin rounds. Roll up 5 shiso leaves (perilla/ooba) and cut them into julienned strips.
After 15 minutes, the eggplant flesh should be soft and the skin slightly shriveled. Remove the baking sheet from the oven.
Now, preheat the broiler. Keep the rack in the same center position, roughly 7 inches (18 cm) away from the heating element.
Carefully turn the eggplants cut side up and brush the flesh with a layer of sweet miso glaze. Coat the surface completely. You don't need to use all the glaze; one batch makes enough for 3 large or 5 medium eggplants.
Tip: You can freeze any leftover glaze to use later or enjoy it as a dip for veggies.
Place the eggplants under the broiler until the glaze begins to bubble and caramelize, about 3-5 minutes. Remove from the broiler.
Tip: The cooking time varies based on how far away you place the food from the heating element.
Sprinkle the baked eggplants with 2 tsp toasted white sesame seeds, sliced green onions, and julienned shiso leaves.
I serve a dab of yuzu kosho (optional) on a maple leaf for a spicy kick. Serve immediately.
Grilled Miso Cod
main fish
New York restaurateur Nobu Matsuhisa has recently popularised
Saikyoyaki - a traditional Japanese method for preparing fish which involves marinating it in white miso paste,
and
Kasuzuke - a technique of pickling ingredients in the sedimentary lees produced from brewing sake.
For his signature dish he marinates
Black Cod, which is not a variety of actual cod but a very buttery sablefish, in miso, sake and mirin for several days before grilling it.
I followed a slightly simplified version by
Kenji López-Alt, and did actually use cod,
though Chilean Sea Bass, Coley or Hake are recommended as Black Cod substitutes, since real cod is considered too lean.
Kenji adds soy sauce and oil, and reduces the marinating time.
Serves 4
- ¼ cup red or white miso paste
- ¼ cup sake
- 2 tablespoons mirin
- 2 teaspoons soy sauce
- 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
- ¼ cup sugar
- 4 black cod fillets, 5 to 6 ounces each
Whisk together miso, sake, mirin, soy sauce, oil, and sugar. Rub mixture over every surface of fish fillets. Transfer to a plastic freezer bag or sealable container.
Proceed immediately to next step, or for best results, marinate for about 30 minutes or up to 2 days.
Adjust broiler rack to 4 inches from heat source and preheat broiler or toaster oven broiler to high.
Cover a small broiler pan with aluminum foil. Place black cod fillets skin side down on pan.
Broil until top surface is well charred and a thin skewer inserted into black cod shows no resistance at all when piercing through layers of flesh, about 10 minutes.
If any areas of fish threaten to burn, shield with small pieces of aluminum foil.
When the fish is cooked, carefully remove any pin bones with a pair of tweezers (there should be no resistance), and serve immediately.
Mangosteens and Prawn Thai Curry
fish thai curry main
My local (ish) greengrocer often stocks a couple of exotic fruit or vegetables for the lols, and today they had mangosteens and rambutans.
It just so happens that I'd recently acquired a copy of Michelin chef David Thompson's
Thai Food,
and his recipe for Mangosteen and Mussels curry had caught my eye whilst I was flicking through.
So when I saw the mangosteens I figured I'd just pick some mussels from the Local Fucking Supermarket™ and wing the rest of the ingredients, since I couldn't remember anything more about the recipe.
Well absolutely typically, the Fucking Supermarket immediately decided to stop stocking mussels and they weren't available anywhere else, so I bought 300g prawns instead and fumbled this dish together.
Fortunately I had some frozen kaffir lime leaves, and coconut milk already in stock. Pity I'd used up all my galangal though.
Still, the result was not half bad. I think I might throw in the rambutan too when I reheat it. 3 mangosteens didn't quite seem like enough.
Serves 2-4
- 1½ cups coconut cream
- 2 tablespoons palm sugar
- 1 tablespoon fish sauce
- 1 tablespoon tamarind water
- ½ cup coconut milk
- 3 mangosteens, flesh removed from husk
- 300g (9oz) mussels or clams
- 3 kaffir lime leaves, torn
- a few picked 'betel' leaves - optional
- 8 dried long red chillies, deseeded, soaked and drained
- large pinch of salt
- 1 tablespoon chopped galangal
- 4 tablespoons of lemongrass
- 1 teaspoon finely chopped kaffir lime zest
- 1 teaspoon scraped and chopped coriander root
- 3 tablespoons chopped red shallot
- 3 tablespoons chopped garlic
- 1 teaspoon shrimp paste (gapi) - optional
- 4 pla salit or 4 pla grop (crisp fish) or flesh of ½ hot-smoked trout
First make the paste.
If using
pla salit or
pla grop , lightly grill the fish, fillet, skin and grind before adding to the paste.
Crack the coconut cream over medium heat, add 3 tablespoons of the paste and fry until the fish is fragrant.
Season with palm sugar, fish sauce - not too much because of the saltiness of the seafood - and then the tamarind water.
(Do not cook the paste for more than a minute or so after adding the tamarind or it will burn.)
Moisten with coconut milk, then add mangosteens and mussels or clams .
Simmer until the molluscs open (discard any that remain stubbornly closed).
Finish with lime leaves and 'betel' leaves.
Check seasoning - it may need more fish sauce.
Accompany with:
- pla grop (crisp fish)
- grilled pork
-
By Karl
Weird Spanish & Thai Cod and Chorizo Stew
fish meat main
Cod loin is the cut from the fattest part of the upper side of the boneless cod fillet, avoiding the belly and the narrowing tail.
I bought some cod loin, chickpeas and chorizo anticipating making a Spanish-style stew, but then I got sidetracked with
mangosteens and prawns.
So I decided to combine the two.
The jury is still out on the verdict.
Serves 2
- ½ tin chopped tomatoes
- 250ml carton coconut cream
- 3-4 tablespoons Thai red (ish) curry paste
- ½ Spanish chorizo
- 250g cod loin fillets in large pieces
- 1 can chickpeas or butter beans
- 1 red pepper, charred
- a few handfuls of spinach leaves
- juice of ½ lime
- drizzle of fish sauce
Peel the chorizo and chop into bite-sized pieces.
Fry over moderate heat in a frying pan, then scoop out the pieces into a bowl and add a few tablespoons of coconut cream.
Crack the coconut cream so the oil separates.
So now take the paste you made for the previous Thai curry, and fry it in the pan until the oil separates and the harshness cooks off.
Add the pieces of cod and fry one side in the paste, then lift out and reserve.
Add the tinned tomatoes and cook until they thicken and reduce.
Add the rest of the coconut cream, the tin of chickpeas with their water and bring to a simmer.
Return the fish and the chorizo and add the spinach leaves. Cover and bring back to the boil.
Serve drizzled with lime juice and fish sauce.
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To make the servings look pretty, you can strain the solids out of the soup when you add it to the eggs, gently reheat the broth, eggs and wild garlic, pour into the bowls, then pile the strained chunks into the centre. Top with a few small oregano leaves.